Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am getting a bit pissed off with a few teething problems I am having that I shouldnt be having.

I had a missfire the other day so I went to the place who did my car and gave them the 'WTF?' they played with injector plugs and it was fixed "oh yeh we had no clips to hold your plugs to your injectors you will have to get some" ... that didnt impress me because what if at full boost an injector plug gets loose? there goes my engine.... err WTF?

Now I was driving home last night and I got a missfire again, I pulled over and fiddled with the plugs and noticed under revs that a mist (looked like steam but i guess its fuel?) was coming from between the front injector and the block and there was some liquid there, it stunk of petrol.

When I first sent the car to the workshop I had put the plugs in (GTR injectors, RB20) but I didnt bed them in properly so they leaked and had to be redone, the workshop also told me while tuning an injector leaked and had to be redone again. NB. Redone = put back in with new o-ring.

I cant drive the car to the workshop as I am scared it will catch on fire.

My questions are:

1) The mist that looks like steam coming out of the injector would be fuel or steam ?

2) Anyone know the part number of the orings or if they are the same as RB30 ones so i can get some tomorrow.

3) will i need to replace all the o-rings or just one injector.

3) hints on the best way to replace and install the new oring(s)

Any other advice is welcomed.

Thanks in advance,

Evan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42268-teething-problems/
Share on other sites

It's the o-ring. I had a split one (was crimped when putting in the injector) for about 2,000k's. Was dribbling fuel out the whole time, too lazy to change it.

With the top feed injectors you need to loosen the fuel rail (two bolts) and remove the offending injector to get to the o ring. You can do it yourself, although the workshop that's done all the work should replace it out of courtesy (hell they should have noticed it and fixed it when they had the car).

It's a bit of a pain the the ass with the standard intake manifold, as access is a bit restricted. There's nothing that hot on the intake side that would ignite the fuel, but having said that a spark from a loose earthing point could ignite it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42268-teething-problems/#findComment-864457
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If I had "perfect R33 GTR" kinda money I would have bought one of the crazy expensive low mileage HJA cars, but I am sadly not that wealthy. I already picked this car out of various Skylines for sale locally, most of which were worse in some way. Only a few cars were actually better but also more expensive. In terms of buying a motor locally, I at least have the option to inspect it myself and juding the seller as a person, and used or freshly rebuilt engines that some people sell are actually ok price-wise. I knew the car was going to require work, but shit piled up real fast and I haven't even driven 1000km yet as the turbo started oiling like a bitch within a few weeks after I got the car.   I assume it wasn't actually me who cracked it, though there is no way to know when that crack formed and if the previous owner even knew it was there. Buying another 05U Block can be a gamble, yeah, but the cheapest PRP cast block is like twice or more money-wise, and billet is 3 or 3 times as much. For now I am most likely just keeping the current engine, as a rebuild or engine swap isn't happening right now. But I am seriously considering buying a second engine and selling mine in return. Might be a sweet deal at the end.
    • Hi all. I need some help buying the correct size banjo bolts for my 2860 turbos. Because whoever installed them tore up the original part, I ordered new ones of this kind, because I just figured these were the most leak-resistant option as I already had trouble with a shitty braided line. I need to know the thread size of the smaller left hole, that is the turbo oil feed connection. I found out so far that the turbo oil inlet apparently has a 7/16"-24 thread, but I cannot find any listing or description of the thread size on this line. I do not have the original bolts. I tried using the bolts that were in the turbos (the ones that were mounted with the shitty braided line) but they sit very loosely so they can't be the right thread. Means either these bolts are the wrong ones (how do they fit the turbo then? no clue) or the wraparound-lines have a different thread than the turbo oil feed itself. Help is appreciated, asking Nissan directly is obviously not going to work.
    • EDIT: PSA to whoever stumbles upon this thread. It is in fact a crack in the block that caused this concern. Just letting you know. In my case, a few cm long hairline crack going horizontally above the turbo oil feed. Classic RB shit I guess
    • Might as well pop in some cams, head gasket, head studs, and a flex sensor. Full send.
×
×
  • Create New...