Jump to content
SAU Community

Time For A New Engine, Which One ?

skylinecouple
 Share

Recommended Posts

skylinecouple Experienced

skylinecouple

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Now THAT makes sense. Can anybody tell me, if I go to the Neo, would my current Apexi run it as I currently have the series 2 motor with the slightly different wiring to the series 1. (cam key is different also) and has the black plastic CAS cover. Although, if I save on the motor rebuild I would go with a new Vipec or similar anyway. That duel fuel idea has been on my mind for some time. Also, do I absolutely need much larger injectors ? To do a nice safe 300-320kws would 740's get me there on ethanol ?

Simon-S14 Grand Master

Simon-S14

Posted
Posted

generally it pays to go large as possible while being sensible and on a budget. ID1000's and siemens deka's are cheap as for example.

and true non neo will live with that power... but theres nothing like a tuned neo engine.. they simply rule with their higher CR and ability to rev hard :D

Your ecu and loom sadly wont be compatible

copycutter Experienced

copycutter

Posted
Posted

generally it pays to go large as possible while being sensible and on a budget. ID1000's and siemens deka's are cheap as for example.

and true non neo will live with that power... but theres nothing like a tuned neo engine.. they simply rule with their higher CR and ability to rev hard :D

Your ecu and loom sadly wont be compatible

Is the neo redline higher, or are you just referring to the solid lifters & GTR rods that allow freer revving?

thought everyone decided the Neo turbo RB25 had the same 9.0:1 static CR and got it with smaller chambers and less plateau on the piston crowns .

A .

I thought the CR was same for all rb25's too. :S

iruvyouskyrine Grand Master

iruvyouskyrine

Posted
Posted

Everyone is making me happy I chose a Neo for my car over a standard 25 haha.<br /><br />What's the average price (I know it's hard to generalise) for a decently built neo25/30? Ie forged and upgraded valve train etc

34GeeTeeTee Grand Master

34GeeTeeTee

Posted
Posted

Well i saw Simons result years ago and chucked all the bolt on goodies on a stock and backed up with the same result, it kind of gets rid of the need for a built engine :P Spend the money on the right parts and enjoy! :yes:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Welp, good to know. Will have to wait awhile until steady hands with drills and taps are available. In other news, these just arrived! I will weigh them for posterity.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      100% the factory sender is tapered, that is how it seals (well, that and teflon paste or tape)
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Thanks folks - I've saved a few links and I'll have to think of potential cable/adapters/buying fittings. First step will be seeing if I can turn the curren abortion of a port into something usable, then get all BSPT'y on it. I did attempt to look at the OEM sender male end to see if it IS tapered because as mentioned you should be able to tell by looking at it... well, I don't know if I can. If I had to guess it looks like *maybe* 0.25 of a mm skinnier at the bottom of the thread compared to where the thread starts. So if it is tapered it's pretty slight - Or all the examples of BSPT vs BSPP are exaggerated for effect in their taper size.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
×
×
  • Create New...