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R33 Cutting Out While Driving

MarcinhoR33
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MarcinhoR33 Rookie

MarcinhoR33

Posted
Posted

so I have an R33, non turbo auto, sedan, I've only had it for a few days and today on the way to the rego place and back it cut out randomly three times while I was driving.
The first time it cut out while I was turning into the car park, I stopped, turned the key to off and straight away turned it on again and it was fine to park.

The second time I was driving at about 80km up a hill, it cut out for a bit, then fired up again, then a couple of seconds later it cut again and I had to pull over.
I tried to start it again but it wouldn't fire and idle. I went and tested the battery with my multimeter and it was showing 12.8 volts so as wasn't thinking it was an electrical issue.

Hopped back in the car and it started up straight away and I took off until about 500m from house where it cut out a third time, same sequence as the second except the road I was on is fairly flat.

Before I tried to start it again but it wouldn't fire... now I'm here hoping someone can give me some suggestions. I am new to R33s and Skylines in general. Any help would be appreciated.

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Got a Pulsar Grand Master

Got a Pulsar

Posted
Posted

Sounds like your Crank Angle Sensor is on it's last legs.

Do a search for "CAS" or "Crank Angle Sensor" and see if anything sounds familiar.

Brings back memories of my old Bluebird.

MarcinhoR33 Rookie

MarcinhoR33

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  • Author
Posted

search on here or just in google?
I've looked at a few other threads and I think it might have something to do with the battery, alternator, spark plugs (even though apparently mine were replaced before I bought the car),

coil pack, AFM, O2 sensor or as you said the CAS. Is there anyway I'd know, or a process of elimination I should follow?

Got a Pulsar Grand Master

Got a Pulsar

Posted
Posted

Search on here in General maintenance, Naturally Aspirated Performance and forced induction etc...

Start at the cheapest options and work up.

Check battery connection, check all electrical connections. including coils etc.

While you're doing that, buy $30 worth of new sparkplugs and replace them as "apparently" is not for sure. (although your problem is unlikely caused by sparkies.)

Same as coil packs as all 6 coils or sparkies would have to crap out at the same time. (do non turbos have individual coils?)

Is it series 1 or 2? Series 1 have an ignitor module that controls the coils. (The modules do die also)

Clean your AFM (with proper Airflow Meter Cleaner) and connector there too.

If it dies at approx the same distance from home a few times and only when warm, (not cold) it does sound like CAS.

(If any of this is noobish misinformation, then I will stand corrected, but none of it will hurt to try.)

Good luck.

4DOOR LoVe !!!

MarcinhoR33 Rookie

MarcinhoR33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ok so this morning I checked the spark plugs... they did look pretty new and didn't look like they needed changing. I tried starting the car and nothing happened when I turned the key.
Multimeter showed 8.1v. Went to the local mechanic and got him to test two of my available batteries. Both had dropped cells, therefore useless. I bought a brand new 600cca battery.

Then I went for a drive to see if it would still cut out. Drove it with overdrive off so it could rev higher to get it hot faster. It drove for ages (approximately about 30-45mins) until it cut out, wouldn't start straight away,

waited about 30 seconds and it started up fine, maybe about 100m it cut out again, 30 seconds later I was driving off. After that it was trying to cut out once or twice but I kept pumping the accelerator and the 33 kept going.
20km it cut again.

This all seemed to happen when it was warm/normal temperature.

Also for as long as I've had it, the idle isn't as smooth as could be.

Before I bought it had been sitting for a couple of months, hence the battery situation. Also the fuel may have been sitting for that length of time as well (now filled with fresh premium 98). Not sure if that may have anything to do with it.

Everything seems to be pointing towards the CAS as all faulty symptoms I've looked up relate to what I'm experiencing.

Now is replacing or checking the CAS something I can do even though I have the same skill as a first year mechanic just starting out? or would it be worth just taking it down to the local mechanic and getting them to do all their tests?

  • 4 weeks later...

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