Whiteline Tension Rod Bushing (Caster Correction) Install Help

[Girorostar]

Hello guys,

I did a search but couldn't find any answers. I need some help with installing these whiteline bushings KCA331.

I'm guessing its suppose to be something easy and straight forward but i'm lacking the info i need. I checked whiteline's website to see if they have an instruction manual but couldn't find it.

I had to go to a machine shop to get the bushing pressed. Now that i have the crush tube set i can't install the rod. Do i have to take of the control arms too to install the rods? Are there more things i have to take off to get this installed.

The car is a 1996 r33 gtst.

Any help would be appreciated, thanks.

cheers!

[GTSBoy]

Define "can't install the rods". Do you mean that you can't get the two rear studs to go through the holes in the arm when you have the front pivot in place (and the opposite case, you can't get the front pivot bolt to go through if they are pre-attached to the suspension arm)? If so, have you thought about exerting force to move the wheel forward relative to the chassis so that the fasteners all line up? Because that's what everyone else has to do.

[Girorostar]

D'oH! I have not thought of that. Was checking and thought i have to remove the control arm and tie rod end to make the wheel move. Gonna go try it again in a moment.

1 more thing, how do you actually setup the caster with these crush tubes, i have a bad feeling that the way i have it pressed in is not on the correct position and i'm gonna be getting some negative caster. It's the first time i'm doing these and i'm learning as i go.

Thanks again for the help.

[GTSBoy]

If your crush tubes are the offset ones that provide some "adjustment", then just set them up so that the offset hole makes the rod as short as it can effectively be (ie the hole should be closer to the back end of the rod than the front end of the rod. But chances are that you will not be able to reliably set it in that orientation then install it and do it up without changing it. So the real way is of course to adjust it after it is installed, preferably on a wheel aligner so you can measure the change and see that you get the max amount of caster.

Note that the amount of adjustment available with these things is practically zero, so in practice it probably doesn't matter a great deal where it ends up. You might just be able to feel the difference between the two extremes of adjustment whilst driving it, but I wouldn't count on it.

[Girorostar]

Ok, thanks for clearing that up.

I got the rod in. The hole in the crush tube was set at the front of the rod, had to press it back out to adjust it right this time.

Thanks again for the info, thought i could change these quick and easy but there's more to it then one can think. Next is the rear suspension, think i'm just gonna pay someone to do that.