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Pricy rebuild!


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My car died a few weeks ago and am now in the process of working out what to do... engine rebuild is definatly nessacery, ran too much boost through the engine:(

current engine mods are:

- 3in. exhaust

- front mount cooler, unsure of exact dimensions

- EBC

- Mines chipped ecu (maby the cause of the whole problem)

- Greddy oil cooler

- Greddy plumback BOV

What im doing is putting on a HKS 2535, want to be able to run 20 psi throught it. and as far as im aware, ill probably need...

- forged pistons (what is a good/cheap brand?)

- GTR (or simmilar) fuel pump

- Power FC

- Injectors and fuel pressure regulator

Couple of questions...

what sort of injectors can i fit straight in without needing to make a custom fuel rail? or how do i go about getting a fuel rail made?

How much generally is it to get the Power FC tuned?

were gonna be taking the car out to alice springs (no speed limits:)) when its finished, is there anything i should be carefull of in regard to tuning with this in mind?

Im looking for around 250 RWKWs out of the engine when it's finished, do i have to upgrade the injectors, ive heard both yes and no...

ive budgeted around $8000 for the whole thing, is this about right? any help would be appreciated.

By the way, went into a local workshop the other day and explained my situation to the guy, told him i wanted around 250RWKWs. He quickly told me that it wasnt worth doing and it would cost me around $30,000. Then i asked him about the RB30/25 conversion, to which he replied, "not worth doing mate, last guy who tried that, ended up costing them around $300,000!!!!". What a load of shit eh?

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First thing to do would be to pull the engine down to see what sort of damage you have done then go from there.

It's a waste of time and money if your only after 250rwkw, the RB25 can do it with standard internals.

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bahahaha i would never visit that local workshop ever again.

for $8k i think you could easily get:

- forged pistons (what is a good/cheap brand?) $1100

- GTR (or simmilar) fuel pump $450

- Power FC $1500

- Injectors and fuel pressure regulator $900

for that $8k i am pretty confident you could build an RB25/30 if you really wanted to go down that path!

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add say $1000 for labour

and $1000 for new gaskets, bearings, machining

it shouldnt cost that much, but at least if you over budget you will end up surprised when you do pay for it all.

If possible do work yourself like pulling the engine out. Its really not that hard. The money left over from the rebuild can go towards more go fast parts, ie cams, cam gears, decent tyres and suspension setup.

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I checked out doing a rebuild with an RB30 bottom end (i supply the RB25) a while ago and was quoted about $8k, this was with a full port job, forged pistons and shot peened rods from JHH Engineering in queensland.

I cant remember the horsepower i was quoted but they where confident of an easy 250rwkw and i think he said the limiting factor on the motor they would build was the turbo and the fuel.

But with an RB30 bottom end they reckoned you wont be blown away by the horse power its the sheer torque that will plant you.

Also i got the feeling that they have built a large number of these motors and they have a good reputation.

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Hi, you can get a rb26 fuel rail made to take top feed high impendance injectors, ( rochester make injectors from sizes 100cc to 1600cc and are $100 each new). PFC will cost depending on where you take the car to be tuned. More expensive isnt always the best as some people here before have said. There was a thread in the NSW section about this just a couple of days ago so go check that out.

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yeah im trying to do things a cheap as possible, have already pulled the engine out and stripped the manifolds and rocker cover off. Car has virtually brand new tyres and suspension is alread done:) will be good to see how fast it can go out in NT!

Thanks for ur help guys. Lepperfish, how much is an RB26 Fuel rail? How do i modify it?

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Doing things on the cheap isnt good, most likely cost you more down the track anyhoot, modding it as you have suggested wont make your car go any faster then diff and gear ratios allow the car at present.

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I have had my stock RB25DET (got a power FC) wrap the speedo needle around to zero ie from zero past 100, past 180 and then onwards to zero and i was still accelarating (got to around 230km/hr i guess). The only problem was that it was sitting on max boost (and around 7000rpm from memory), else the car felt fantastic roaring down the stuart hwy at that speed.

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Like Lepperfish said doing it on the cheap will cost you more in the end. When i do get around to getting a rebuild i will be going with JHH because i want a strong well built motor.

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I have had my stock RB25DET (got a power FC) wrap the speedo needle around to zero ie from zero past 100, past 180 and then onwards to zero and i was still accelarating (got to around 230km/hr i guess). The only problem was that it was sitting on max boost (and around 7000rpm from memory), else the car felt fantastic roaring down the stuart hwy at that speed.

HAHAHA that sounds sweet dude, what sort of temperature was that in? Ur engine didn't ping or anything?

sorry, ill rephrase my other comment. Im trying to keep costs to a minimum, not do things cheap:)

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35degreeC ambient i guess. I didnt stay at that speed too long because i was worried about pinging. One amusing thing i did find was that the plastic that sits inside the front guard (towards the front bumper) was pushed against my tyre and my tyre melted a hole in it!

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I remember working out that if I had my R32 sitting on some where between 7000rpm and 7500rpm it would be doing 250-260km/h.

If you are going to spend 8k on a motor I would suggest you remove and install the motor your self with maybe a couple of friends and a carton of beer. :O

Spend the money you save from doing it your self on a set of forged rods.

Then slap a big huffer on it and run 400rwkw. :)

I had my:

RB25 head rebuilt with a mild port polish for ~$1100 inc the VRS Kit.

RB30 bottom end rebuilt, blueprinted, balanced to 1gm, had the block, crank & rods crack tested, Wiseco forged pistons, multi-layer metal head gasket and the RB25DE head fitted inc. fitting cam belt for ~$3700.

So all upthe rebuild set me back around $4800.

If you were to slap a set of forged rods in, thats an extra $1800.

Brings the price up to $6600.

I personally wouldn't waste the $600-$800 they charge for shotpeening rods. It doesn't make it that much more reliable. I remember when I looked in to it that shotpeened rods only allows around another 50hp overall. Which is nothing.

You should be able to break the landspeed record with a nice big huffer and high diff gears up at alice springs then. :D

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Hahaha, don't want to go beserk on the motor, just want a reasonably quick street car.

Im not really aiming for any sort of top speed out there, its just that me and the old man are going there anyway, so would be good to see how fast it can go, legally... get it all on camera :O

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Just rebuild it standard.. Drop the comp to 8.5:1 for increased reliability.

A std. rebuild was going to set me back $1100 inc. a balance or for bit better job $1800.

Can't remember the differences betweek the two now.

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