Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys first of all, i could find an introduction area on this forum, did i miss it?

anyway, il do it in here. ive previously owned 2 wrx's and an evo vii, which i recently sold and now just have a 99 civic auto coupe to run around in :) . it didnt take long to get bored... i originally wanted a gts-t before my first wrx, but didnt even test drive one, and just bought the rex.

so i joined here to see what could be had for the 6-7g mark when it comes to r33/r32 gts-t's, my impression of gts-t's is that they were slow, but i think i have just come across the poorly moded ones, which there seems to be alot of! (lots of bolt ons with no tune), dont even get me started on the cosmetics of some on carsales!

so, if you had 6-7 to spend, what would you look for?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/423628-cheap-gts-t-s/
Share on other sites

Welcome to the forums dude! I picked my R33 Gts-T for 7 grand, fairly stock, FMIC, pod filter and walbro 255 fuel pump. Then I bought myself an RB20 wastegate actuator (runs 10psi not 7psi like the stock R33 ones) and an EBC which is running 10psi low, 12 high. Got a NIStune and dyno done by garage 7. Makes 209kw on 10psi, as for if it's slow or not, I guess it just depends what you're use to.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/423628-cheap-gts-t-s/#findComment-6817332
Share on other sites

but there are also stock ones for around 11-12. are these dreamers or ?

If they're 100% stock, they're dreaming unless if has like under 100,000 geniune km's on it. Or unless it's a later like 98' series 3 R33 Gts-T.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/423628-cheap-gts-t-s/#findComment-6817335
Share on other sites

but there are also stock ones for around 11-12. are these dreamers or ?

Definite dreamers.

As per PM, I have a R33 Series 1 GTS-T, faily stock, has aftermarket 3" exhaust system with front mount intercooler. $5K, also very clean turbo manual. I've wrecked a few R33's and seeing the price for them, any stock R33 over $7K is overpriced. $7K should be able to get you a very nice clean one if stock. $7K+ should have some nice performance parts in it, fair amount of Ks and at least 6 months of rego.

True story: Had a guy offer me his R33 GTS-T, extremely modified, wanted $45K for it. May as well buy a 34 GTR :whistling:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/423628-cheap-gts-t-s/#findComment-6817373
Share on other sites

just found a topic a few down from mine which is almost exactly the same reg a guy buying his first turbo car for 6-7g, lol.

what i gathered fro reading through that is an R33 gts-t is probly the best bang for buck, i think reson 32's are goin for higher is because there arnt that many!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/423628-cheap-gts-t-s/#findComment-6817451
Share on other sites

but there are also stock ones for around 11-12. are these dreamers or ?

HAHA definitely dreamers. R33 gts-Ts are like Commodores. There's tonnes of them everywhere, they're getting to be really old cars (15-20 years old) and a lot of them are poorly looked after. For this reason YOU have the ability to decide the market price. They're worth peanuts (probably in the range of 3-7k) and anybody who tells you otherwise is probably the owner of a GTST trying to sell it :O

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/423628-cheap-gts-t-s/#findComment-6821644
Share on other sites

Mine. :-)
R32 Type M

Stock. All mods are for handling with a full 3" exhaust.
That's it.


Does go hard for no reason though. lol

Paid 7.
Neat interior.
minor paint peel.
Mine came with a logbook and all aussie receipts too.
Has new rear 1/4's too. :-D


Edited by RBMunkie
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/423628-cheap-gts-t-s/#findComment-6824680
Share on other sites

How long is a piece of string?

As mentioned before, the way the car has been looked after can make a world of difference in value. Modifications matter, history matters.

A clapped out, rusted example is going to vary hugely in price from the well documented and cared for example.

I've got my R32 GTS-T for sale for 6.5k firm and I've actually had a harder time moving it than I thought, considering the condition and what I've spent. But that's just life.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/423628-cheap-gts-t-s/#findComment-6825155
Share on other sites

Here's one for you.. Bought my 1993 R32 gtst Type-M for $9500.... Lol, I know..

That's not even the bad part..

287xxx kms (Suppoasbly 150xxx but doubt that)

Took off the bodykit to a shit load of chunks missing and rust underneath... More than my 83 corolla.. Since then I've spent about $2000 and its still getting nowhere

Oh and my interior is pretty dodgy.. I got a new dash, 550cc injectors an yellow jackets included in the boot, plus other things I have no idea about

Edited by Zrobe
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/423628-cheap-gts-t-s/#findComment-6825188
Share on other sites

Definite dreamers.

As per PM, I have a R33 Series 1 GTS-T, faily stock, has aftermarket 3" exhaust system with front mount intercooler. $5K, also very clean turbo manual. I've wrecked a few R33's and seeing the price for them, any stock R33 over $7K is overpriced. $7K should be able to get you a very nice clean one if stock. $7K+ should have some nice performance parts in it, fair amount of Ks and at least 6 months of rego.

True story: Had a guy offer me his R33 GTS-T, extremely modified, wanted $45K for it. May as well buy a 34 GTR :whistling:

Yep there is a lot of overpriced Skylines out there at the moment.

I have my eye on a GTS-T at the moment for 8k (with rego) with a rebuilt motor, nistune, nismo injectors, high flowed turbo, front mount etc.

So to me anything more than 7-8k is dreaming for anything close to stock.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/423628-cheap-gts-t-s/#findComment-6826097
Share on other sites

Yeah, as Truffles said, even though R32's are getting rare - most of them are clapped out.

I spent MONTHS looking for my R32.

Outside it ain't perfect.
But all rust has been repaired and has no collision damage or previous repairs.


R32's were destroyed by the "Leb spec" phase.

There is several ok looking GTR's going for 12 grand.
A white one going around at the moment.
Needs love - but damn, rego and a GTR title for 12K?
Might be worth it with a little love.

Cost a bit more to fix up than buying a GTR at 20k, but you'd be saving a GTR.
That's how I see it anyway. lol


Goodluck on finding an R32, I just took out a loan to consolidate all my debts in one hit so I can keep mine (Stupid medical bills.)
So I guess that shows how much I love my clean '32. :-P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/423628-cheap-gts-t-s/#findComment-6827052
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...