Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone,

One issue after another. I have lost the count but anyways.....

This new issue is a bit interesting. I used to have ticking/ rattling noise coming from the damn variable valve timing unit. during the last few weeks that annoying sound has gone for good. However we have a different issue now.

When the car idles, especially when warm, it shivers, shakes just as the idle RPM is too low and it's going to stall. However the idle RPM is pretty normal (around 600rpm) and although the car shakes like it's having an orgasm, it doesn't stall.

When you stop at the lights, it happens. when you take off, the car goes nice and smooth.

What might be the issue guys?

I kind of like it as it functions like a massager.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/423868-my-300gt-has-malaria/
Share on other sites

If it's bad enough you may be able to hear it. A stethoscope may be useful here. Otherwise just spray some silicone spray, or an equivalent accelerant, all around the intake, piping etc and listen to hear the idle speed pick up.

nah mate, that is your "fuel damper"

you can only hear it from the inside of your car right? not from the outside?

and it seems to be coming from behind the dash right?

if you put your hand on the fuel damper in your engine bay you will feel it shake, that is the cause of your problems.

I had this exact same problem and got it fixed, new damper cost about $90....easy install just gotta jack the car up.

It does file like the car is kind of a massage chair. the whole thing is simply shaking. It's like a huge vibrator.

I have recently changed the fuel pump but not sure about the dumper stuff.

The car shakes but doesn't stall and when you accelerate, it runs nice and smooth.

As I said it feels like the idle rpm is low, but then it should stall right? this guy doesnt stall at all. When you are at the lights, right before you take off, if you touch the accelerator gently, it almost stalls and than as your foot goes further down on the pedal, it picks up momentum.

To make the long story short, no stalling. shivers like a massive vibrator (If you place a cup of water on the dash board, it might spill around), car runs smoothly after take off. That's all I have in hand.

As I mentioned in my first e-mail, before this issue merged , I had a problem with the Variable valve timing shit. It was ticking between 0 to 2000rmp. now that ticking is gone. I don't know whether these problems are related or not.

I think the Variable timing unit clicked something sensitive, and now the car is having orgasm.... :)

did u fix the vvt or did it just stop by itself?

if u fixed it, the mechanic might have knocked a hose loose or forgot to tighten a bolt somewhere thus causing a vacuum leak which can have the same effect as you described above.

if u didn't touch the vvt and it just went away itself...then I reckon it's your fuel damper gone bad thus causing this new problem you have described.

The car used to have stalling problem as well. That's why I changed the fuel pump thinking that it might be the reason. However the issue was still there after changing the pump.

I might try to replace the fuel pressure damper to see if it makes any difference.

Any part number for the fuel pressure damper for 2001 300GT V35 VQ30DD engine (direct injection)

Just wanna ask one more question, If there is a problem with the fuel damper or pressure regulator (are they the same thing or what?), do you think the car shakes all the time or just when idles?

Because in my case, the car shakes only when I stop and it idles. when I accelerate there is no problem at all. The car runs nice and smooth.

I think I have the dampener here on my spare 2.5dd if you want a cheap one. Have you priced it from Nissan yet? Could be the HP fuel pump too I guess.

It would be good if you could get a fuel pressure gauge on the high pressure side, that would prove if the dampener and the pump are faulty or not.

  • 2 weeks later...

it seems like there is no leak. I took it to the Nissan Service centre. They came up with a list of error codes starting from the crank shaft sensor, 2 of the cam timing sensors and mass air flow sensor. At the end of the list it says $1434.00 including the labour.

2 V-cam timing sensors supply and fi $700

Crank shaft sensor $348

Mass air flow sensor $386

they cant even say whether it's going to fix the problem or not.

I was driving home today and the damn thing stalled. I pulled over and tried to restart....not a chance.

I got out to get some fresh air and after 10 mins, I got back in and it started.

I'm sick and tired of this car but I just cant throw it away.

I had gone to Nuwan before when I had that ticking noise from the engine (variable valve timing stuff I had mentioned before). He came up with a longer list of things to be done. At least he can tell me that what he is going to do is going to fix the problem. On the other hand he will replace a lot of things to sort it out. his list costs $ 3600

Lol. Why not see if the sensors are the same as vq35de, as they are available from the US at better prices. Change them for yourself and find out.

The sensors can be bought for $75 or there abouts each.

Nissan can EAD.

I was going to bring it to you Scotty, but I mentioned earlier the ticking noise disappeared when the vibration started. Changing the sensors is not an issue, but the questions is will it solve the problem. if that ticking noise was affecting the timing, then it would be normal that the sensors were delivering wrong signals which might mean there might be nothing wrong with the sensors.

Even if the sensors are changed, I strongly believe that the problem will be there.

I'm really confused.

At least Nuwan gives me warranty although the list he came up with is long and costly.

I have just purchased roadside assistance, just to make sure.

I'm planning to go overseas, so cant invest any money on it now.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
    • The video for the servicing and fuel filter change can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44 One of the main jobs I wanted to do before the car officially went on the road, was to remove the awful looking blue silicone hoses. There's nothing wrong with having coloured silicone hoses, but I realise as I'm getting older I prefer monotone engine bays with a splash of colour on the engine cover(s). I cover this in a lot more detail in the Youtube video, so unfortunately there's limited photos of the process. The intercooler, upper radiator, boost vacuum and upper breather hoses were all changed to black silicone with mikalor clamps. The only blue left is a blanking cap at the back of the inlet manifold and the GReddy pulleys (which will be replaced for stock when the cambelt gets replaced) While the intercooler pipes were off I gave them a quick clean/polish too A before photo I do have a replacement air filter on its way. Fuse box covers were painted blue, they're now satin black Another job on the list while the bumper was off, is to add some mesh https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737966256_99b28bfa30_c.jpg[/img] I was hoping to use some thin wire to secure it, but it seems I've misplaced it and the wire I had was too thick to twist easily. I ended up using cable ties for the time being https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131882_c2b7989dcc_c.jpg[/img] Was pleasant to see this https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131627_8b2aab13b3_c.jpg[/img] The last thing to do was to fix the front grill and re-mesh that to match but I ran out of time The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R4FsF6tgizE&t=23s
×
×
  • Create New...