Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I can assure you, from experience (at QR yesterday), plummetting down the straight and feeling your brakes not gripping the rotors is not a fun feeling.

Nah the brakes worked but the pedal was sinking to the floor when hot. couple of cool down laps & they were sweet again.

  • Like 1

Nah the brakes worked but the pedal was sinking to the floor when hot. couple of cool down laps & they were sweet again.

Exactly the same problem I had... Looked it up and it's caused by the fluid boiling. 3 remedies are: Titanium shims behind the pads, Better brake fluid, braided lines.

Oh and to make matters worse, once it's boiled once, it's more likely to boil again :(

Motul RBF 600...get it. I have never had brake fade on QR and I go HARD on all the straights every lap, no cooldowns for my baby :P

I also have braided lines, but they don't help with cooling just give a better pedal feel as they don't expand under pressure.

Apparently braided makes a bigger difference when the fluid is hot :) Have you tried the motul rbf660? Any idea if it's compatible with my car?

Well heat makes rubber more pliable so it would expand more when the fluid is hot. The 600 and 660 are about the same, except the 660 boils about 20 deg. higher and costs about twice as much. Just use 600, more than enough as your pads will give out before you boil fluid (assuming they are just street pads).

Well heat makes rubber more pliable so it would expand more when the fluid is hot. The 600 and 660 are about the same, except the 660 boils about 20 deg. higher and costs about twice as much. Just use 600, more than enough as your pads will give out before you boil fluid (assuming they are just street pads).

Hmmmm I can get 660 at a *reasonable* price... I don't wanna change it twice if I upgrade other components later... Argh... I dunno, I might be over-thinking this...

I can't make this and I needed to cause of work, so can you guys do me a favour please. Can you ask what settings to run for 50% street 50% track.

Castor

Front camber

Rear camber

Rear toe

What ever else that can be adjusted please on an alignment place. Thanks.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...