Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey there,

I have a r32 GTR and was wondering what the oil pressure guage on the dash should read? It seems to fluctuate from near 4 on cold start, to almost zero when freeway cruising. It doesn't seem right to me. I have searched but was chasing some more recent info - especially on places to get it done.

I have looked at aftermarket oil pumps - n1 around $250 - $300, JUN, NISMO - $1300. I don't want to get big power out of the motor so would a n1 be enough? I don't fancy spending a grand if theres no need for it.

My last question would be, has anyone recently (as mechanics leave etc..) had an oil pump changed, as i've heard the front diff needs to come out. Any places you'd recommend?

Cheers,

Any help is appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/424456-r32-gtr-oil-pump-sensor-reading/
Share on other sites

Probably is the pressure sender, I've never heard of an oil pump to let you know it's about to fail. They just break

I used a N1 oil pump with remax gear set and I'm hauling close to 400 awkw. The gear set is around $450 delivered plus

N1 pump, it should all cost around $550,

you will need to put a restrictor in the head though, and it's motor out job

Good luck

Probably is the pressure sender, I've never heard of an oil pump to let you know it's about to fail. They just break

I used a N1 oil pump with remax gear set and I'm hauling close to 400 awkw. The gear set is around $450 delivered plus

N1 pump, it should all cost around $550,

you will need to put a restrictor in the head though, and it's motor out job

Good luck

If you're not going for power, a standard OEM pump would be better than the standard N1 due to the N1s having weak gears - however if you get the remax/reinik/nitto gears to replace it (as suggested above) then you'll be fine - they are extremely strong gears. One thing that is worth checking is where the crank meets the oil pump - if you have an early r32 you'll want to buy a crank collar to prevent drive failure as the early cranks have that area machined too small (its cheap and worth doing if you already have the oil pump off).

Personally, I'd go the route suggested above, get the N1 housing (higher pressure relief valve to OEM) and put the stronger aftermarket gears in it. It all comes down to how much you're prepared to spend.

-D

 

If you're not going for power, a standard OEM pump would be better than the standard N1 due to the N1s having weak gears - however if you get the remax/reinik/nitto gears to replace it (as suggested above) then you'll be fine - they are extremely strong gears. One thing that is worth checking is where the crank meets the oil pump - if you have an early r32 you'll want to buy a crank collar to prevent drive failure as the early cranks have that area machined too small (its cheap and worth doing if you already have the oil pump off).

Personally, I'd go the route suggested above, get the N1 housing (higher pressure relief valve to OEM) and put the stronger aftermarket gears in it. It all comes down to how much you're prepared to spend.

-D

 

If there is nothing wrong with the pump pressure just leave the thing alone.

   

If there is nothing wrong with the pump pressure just leave the thing alone.

Its not a matter of modification, its the default on some pumps -

Below is stolen from http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/227714-rb26-crank-in-rb25/

An early R32GTR "stock" oil pump? The N1 pump has the wide drive flange, the early R32GTR oil pump doesn't, they have the narrow drive flange. The N1 oil pump also has a different rotor configuration and the higher oil pressure relief valve.

A late R32GTR "stock" oil pump? They both have the wide drive flange,but the N1 oil pump also has a different rotor configuration and the higher pressure relief valve

An R33GTR "stock" oil pump? They both have the wide drive flange, but the N1 oil pump also has a different rotor configuration and the higher pressure relief valve

An R33GTR V SPec "stock" oil pump? They both have the wide drive flange and the same rotor configuration, but the N1 oil pump has the higher pressure relief valve

An R34GTR "stock" oil pump? They both have the wide drive flange, the same rotor configuration and the higher pressure relief valve

Hope that helps

-D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
×
×
  • Create New...