Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Is that supra denso the same pump that came with some of the r33 skylines?

Mine is a Jecs.

So according to that the walbro 255 flows less than the stock pump?

Edited by sonicz

Is that supra denso the same pump that came with some of the r33 skylines?

Mine is a Jecs.

So according to that the walbro 255 flows less than the stock pump?

Not the same pump.

Forget about which flows more, the stock pump is 20 years old, pick the pump which will supply enough fuel for your application. If your running stock injectors then a 255lph @ battery voltage will.

op dunno what youre concerned about, i only ever fill up to half a tank cuz it saves weight = more power

what???

It still fits in the same amount of fuel its just that the intake was higher so couldn't use it. That would mean your awesome method of going fast (light weight) would mean you can only access 1/4 of a tank.

And sorry to burst your bubble, but a 50kg weight saving is worth 0.1 seconds at the drags. You might as well fill your tank up man.


And sorry to burst your bubble, but a 50kg weight saving is worth 0.1 seconds at the drags. You might as well fill your tank up man.

Do u know

Thats over 400 metres only, on a race track that would be a second slower a lap, and a second is a HUGE difference, a second a lap slower then anyone else would have u almost being lapped at the sned of the race.

But youre right doesnt make much of a difference, hell might aswell throw in barbell plates and dumbells for even more weight gain...wait wot

op dunno what youre concerned about, i only ever fill up to half a tank cuz it saves weight = more power

g9pepl.jpg

Lol. The only way that would make any sense is if gravity worked upside down just in the petrol tank.

Moving on, I have a quick question hopefully can be answered here without starting a new thread.

Is it at all possible to run a dual walbro setup with the stock wiring and piping?

BY this I mean just splice in power to the second walbo 255 from the wiring going to the 1st then fit both pumps into a "Y" piece in tank.

Its ok if the voltage drops off a bit because there will be 2 pumps pumping.

Edited by sonicz

g9pepl.jpg

Lol. The only way that would make any sense is if gravity worked upside down just in the petrol tank.

If u fill youre car only half full VS full tank, which do u think is gona make the go go faster? C if u can work that equation out lol

ps i don't know how u brought gravity into this.

If he really wants extra fuel capacity, might as well make it duel fuel tanks like my dads Hilux, again pointless tho i mean its hardly a 500hp fuelaholic rotary were talkin about here. So many mods for so little gain.. but its you're ride

g9pepl.jpg

Lol. The only way that would make any sense is if gravity worked upside down just in the petrol tank.

Moving on, I have a quick question hopefully can be answered here without starting a new thread.

Is it at all possible to run a dual walbro setup with the stock wiring and piping?

BY this I mean just splice in power to the second walbo 255 from the wiring going to the 1st then fit both pumps into a "Y" piece in tank.

Its ok if the voltage drops off a bit because there will be 2 pumps pumping.

No, you will melt your wiring.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/423664-melted-connector-plug-due-to-larger-in-tank-pump-pics/?fromsearch=1

Hmm well thats a walbro 460 not 2x 255s. The walbro 255s take about 7-9 amps, and these guys are saying the 460 takes 25A? Its possible the stock wiring could handle 2x 7-9amps ?

Furthermore this guy did the direct battery feed mod, which would raise the volage above the stock 12v, further drawing more amps than my setup would.

You need to learn some electronics basics, raising the voltage will lower the current draw, which is why the Walbro's fail at the low cruise voltage. That stalling your car is doing while idling and cruising is the pump stalling out, bad news for the pump.

You need to learn some electronics basics, raising the voltage will lower the current draw, which is why the Walbro's fail at the low cruise voltage. That stalling your car is doing while idling and cruising is the pump stalling out, bad news for the pump.

+1

watts=volts x amps

watts are constant. higher volts = less amp draw.

I understand the walbro is not designed to run at 9v, but its still just a DC motor in there just like the stock pump which runs at 9v like a champ.

Are people actually saying when both pumps are at 9v, the walbro flows hugely less than the stock, so little in fact my car almost stalls, but when both pumps are at 12v suddenly the 255 overtakes the stock pump and flows more?

of course a pump designed to run at 12v may not run that well. hell, a big turbo that is designed to run on large capacity engine isn't going to spool up like a champ when bolted into corolla. it's all about effeciency. sure the stock pump may run fine at 9v, but that is probably because of it's design. 9v might be enough to have it work efficiently. but something designed to work at only 12v may have more resistance in the internals to allow it to flow more, but that means that at 9v it isn't able to overcome this, so it doesn't work very well.

I wouldn't be using rubber items such as radiator hose in the tank. The rubber breaks down. You can only use butyl rubber fuel hose inside the tank (inner and outer layers are butyl rubber, $100 a metre roughly) as it is designed to be immeresed in fuel.

Even efi fuel hose, not to be used in the tank, just outside.

It will break down and harden and clog shit.. My 2cents...

I wouldn't be using rubber items such as radiator hose in the tank. The rubber breaks down. You can only use butyl rubber fuel hose inside the tank (inner and outer layers are butyl rubber, $100 a metre roughly) as it is designed to be immeresed in fuel.

Even efi fuel hose, not to be used in the tank, just outside.

It will break down and harden and clog shit.. My 2cents...

Yes i agree, this is an important issue.

I too, had the same concern before i went out and bought a radiator hose for my second fitting attempt.

I went ahead and fitted it because I figured, if the fuel is strong enough to dissolve the hose at the source, It will be strong enough to keep any of the dissolved debris from building up or clogging anything. Worst case scenario I will be burning small amounts of dissolved rubber in the combustion chamber mixed in with the fuel.

I would appreciate your thoughts on this reasoning.

I plan to check the state of the rubbers after a few weeks.

Edited by sonicz

Yes i agree, this is an important issue.

I too, had the same concern before i went out and bought a radiator hose for my second fitting attempt.

I went ahead and fitted it because I figured, if the fuel is strong enough to dissolve the hose at the source, It will be strong enough to keep any of the dissolved debris from building up or clogging anything. Worst case scenario I will be burning small amounts of dissolved rubber in the combustion chamber mixed in with the fuel.

I would appreciate your thoughts on this reasoning.

I plan to check the state of the rubbers after a few weeks.

not sure on your thoughts there man, radiator hose has fibres reinforcing it,i doubt the petrol would dissolve them.

Also, that is some freaky stuff with the current draw getting higher with more voltage, really can't get my head around that....

Edited by superben
  • 3 months later...

Just the thread i was after!!

I mounted my walbro in the exact location as the stock one, but I was provided with a vertical strainer/filter, but it's still about an inch shorter than the stock.

I didn't realise i had to install it lower, and therefore my car would just crank and try and try and try to start up, but just wouldn't fire up when I got down to about 1/4 tank.

I was supplied with a black sock that i didn't know what i needed it for, but now I'm assuming it's to cover the pump. I'm not exactly sure what material it is though, and I don't want it to dissolve or whatnot in my fuel. I may have a go at just lowering it without the sock, and just maybe try my luck at using just one hose clamp? :\

Can anyone tell me what size hose clamp is needed to tighten the pump onto the cradle thing? Also, will I need to cut off the metal round thing on the cradle where the stock pump used to sit on the rubber mount?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
    • Perhaps the answer is... more jacks!* *proper jacks must be used.  
    • I NEVER think about using a scissor jack unless there is absolutely no other alternative. f**king things are dangerous, annoying and stupid.
×
×
  • Create New...