Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

how can i achieve around the 260kw atw's mark with a rb25det? what mods will i need done to do this and mods to make it reliable?.

1 how much power can the internals handle in rb25dets?

2 how much power can the fuel system handle? pump,injectors,regualator)

3 what hp figure is the standard t3 turbo rated at?

cheers.

It is VERY important to get a fuel pump that not only supplies the appropriate pressure and flow, but is also less likely to fail than the std item. The fact that my car no longer has it's original motor is a testament to that.

But in order:

1 how much power can the internals handle in rb25dets?

If tuned correctly, I would suggest that they're capable of reliably making 400 engine hp.

2 how much power can the fuel system handle? pump,injectors,regualator)

Injectors will prob be maxing out at 350 engine hp, regulator....dunno....pump piss it right off.

3 what hp figure is the standard t3 turbo rated at?

Firstly it isn't a T3. It's a specially made unit manufactured for Nissan by Hitachi. It does use a T3 flange and this is where the confusion comes from. I believe it is rated at about 340hp.

Adrian

Heavy duty Clutch - $1100

Front mount intercooler - $1500

Fuel pump - $450

injectors (altho its been proven to get 250kw's out of the standard injectors, get bigger for reliability) $1000

Turbo: HKS 2540 will get you their with good tune, or if you want a more power go for the GT3040 $1500 - $3000 new or second hand.

high mount exhaust manifold: $2500

maby aftermarket head gasket. (depends on what boost you want to run) $400

Ecu : maby power fc - $1200

wastegate - $500 - $800

hks exhust cam gear - $250

3" exhaust etc: - $1500

Thoes prices are just guestimate. theirs most likely stuff i've missed

get a set of cams, tomei ones 256 - 260 or whatever the ones sydneykids says to use :)

this will increase torque over the entire rev range and on boost too

the 2540 will just be laggy, if you want the same power level get a r33 highflow it should match the power of the 2540 without the lag.

the hks3040 brand new from nengun is around 2700 not including delivery. look at a gt30 with a gcg manifold instead, probably better and more cost effective, get an external gated turbo too. or even a trust kit which includes turbo, wastegate and manifold. i wouldnt just stick to hks just cos

ecu probably power fc, hand controller and boost controller kit

other ones like wolf3d dont use air flow meter so that solves your air flow meter problem

stock r33 gtr intercooler should be ok for upto 300rwkw vs brand new aftermarket one

youll need a new or good/better clutch twin plate as stated

i would do injectors and fuel pump and fuel regualtor to be sure to be sure, saves stuff going bang

also you *may* need a different air flow meter, depending on how much boost you run, the stock 33 one will max out and only show 5volts and give the wrong reading the ecu so the ecu will underfuel

i dont believe head gasket is needed, check out below threads

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ight=power+rwkw

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ight=power+2530

for some previous configs and power outputs. get a full exhaust, hiflow cat, hiflow dump and front pipe

my info is mainly from searching on here and reading up and learning myself so some of it could be slight out or incorrect, sorry if it is

Guest INASNT
how can i achieve around the 260kw atw's mark with a rb25det? what mods will i need done to do this and mods to make it reliable?.  

1 how much power can the internals handle in rb25dets?

2 how much power can the fuel system handle? pump,injectors,regualator)

3 what hp figure is the standard t3 turbo rated at?

cheers.

Like anything the rb25 will last as long as u treat it well. Dont drive full throttle and like u just stole it all the time and it will have a long life.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, this shouldn't be such a mission, but there were a few tricks so I thought I'd post up a DIY for it. This was on a Q50 Red Sport but I doubt any other V37 model is very different (maybe just less steps for the intake heat exchanger hoses) I pulled the radiator out to flush it because the car was running hot at the track, but obviously the same steps apply for changing a radiator for any reason including an upgrade. If you are removing the radiator, you of course need to drain and refill, so have 5+ litres of blue coolant ready. You don't need to drain the intake heat exchanger to remove the radiator but depending on your plans you may need a couple of litres for that as well. You will also need something to deal with the auto transmission lines, I used 2x 8mm rubber caps on the radiator side, and a short length of 8mm pipe on the car side.....unless you can block these lines quickly you will loose AT fluid and it may be enough to hurt the transmission if you don't refill it. Other than that....lets go... "First, jack up your car". Yes really, and put it safely on stands. If you are not confident doing that you need to give this job to a mechanic
    • If the forester is anything like our old 2007 GTB Liberty, I could near on run ling Long's and "rate them", as no matter what, it just hung to the road, even when abusing it in a hard launch in the wet, or throwing it at corners.
    • LOL, all of the CAI like Craig I just need to put a hole saw through my bumper Done and dusted, the car runs, which is nice, I'll take it for a spin when the weather clears up Just need to put the bumper back on for good
    • Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
×
×
  • Create New...