Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey forum I just have a quick question about a turbo's compressor housing. What would be the effect of a bigger compressor housing on a turbo? For example you have a 35r you take the compressor cover off and machine it out a little bigger and put it back on that same turbo what would be the effect on spool, cfm and horsepower? A friend of mine has a 35r he wants to sell me and he says the compressor housing was machined a little bigger. I just wanted to know if it is a worthwhile investment or if that mod just made the turbo worst?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/425207-effect-of-bigger-compressor-housing/
Share on other sites

This is an area which I am curious about too and am not sure what to make of. Garrett don't seem to release different compressor maps for their different housing sizes for the same wheels - but in saying that I have definitely seen cases where people have made more power upgrading to different housings.

I know for sure that people have got power improvements with EVO 16Gs going up to a larger compressor housing size, the same applies to people with XR6 Turbos (going from the stock .50a/r unit to the .70a/r housing seen with aftermarket GT3582Rs) - but at the same time a guy I know did an experiment with a maxed out Garrett "T04Z". The turbo was totally maxed out on race fuel, 770hp @ hubs from memory. He got the compressor housing extrude honed and put it back on the dyno for another go, attempted a full retune to suit and no difference anywhere - it was like nothing at all had changed. They couldn't push the boost any higher, nothing.

At this stage I am playing with the idea that its a case of getting the smallest scroll (will call it tube) possible to flow the amount of air you need, a smaller tube may allow pressure to build a bit quicker but then there will be a point it may become a bottle neck. If your tube is big enough then going up a size may make no difference at all, but if the compressor flow is being restricted by it then I'm guessing an upgrade would be beneficial. Maybe someone like Stao @ Hypergear will have some insight, as he's probably used similar cores in different housing combinations.

Not really talking about extrude honing but more machining the area where the compressor blade fits and making that bigger. Would it increase lag and cfm or do absolutely nothing?

Yep, we are talking about the same sort of thing.... You would imagine some increased lag as there is more area to fill but possibly more flow up high? I'm not sure...

Differences in power is almost no difference, unless a huge variance between sizes such as difference between a tinny VL .46 comp Vs a .70 comp used on a 82mm wheel. Other wise just like I managed to pull 349rwkws out of a stock nissan housing. How ever the cutting profile inside the housing makes a huge difference. that can affect response as well as discharging temp.

I personally prefer to work on large compressor housings as it has extra materials that I can work with, looks and sounds better.

Exhaust housing do make a huge difference.

How ever the cutting profile inside the housing makes a huge difference. that can affect response as well as discharging temp.

I'm guessing giving the compressor more clearance to the housing after the inducer area will increase lag but also raise power to boost threshold, with drops in charge temp due to fact there is less compression (in turn less friction on air particles) per unit of outright flow?

Possibly a reasonable option for high output setup's where lag isn't an issue and a drop in charge temps AND boost to power threshold would mean more accessible area of the available flow. IF my theory is correct, anyhow.

Hmmmmm. So the general consensus is that it will increase lag a bit, but with the potential to raise horsepower and lower discharge temps? Also another quick question can your exhaust pipe/muffler affect your turbo spool? A friend of mine had his exhaust system replaced from the turbo to the catback and now car has picked up lag?

The first exhaust system he had was from the turbo all the way to the middle of the cat, one straight piece of pipe and the turbo spooled by 4400-4800 rpms, he now has a front pipe, dump pipe and decat pipe installed and that is the only change he made to the system and now he turbo spools by 5200-5600.

That is about 1000rpm's worth of lag picked up and we can not figure why. System has been checked for boost leaks, there are none and also no exhaust leaks pre-turbo.. Like I said only thing changed was the exhaust system from the turbo to the cat back. So could that have caused the lag he now experiences?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...