Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, I have had some idling issues in a m35 stagea (vq25det) so I looked at my spark plugs.

I have found oil in the chamber where the coil pack lead runs - and all over the spark plug.

The spark plug was dripping with oil but from what I can see it is from the oil in the chamber as there does not seem to be oil in the piston area.

Any ideas on what's wrong?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/425649-oil-in-spark-plug-valleychamber/
Share on other sites

It is quite common to have a slow leak into the plug well, it doesn't affect the engine at all as oil is an insulator. To properly fix the leak you will have to replace the whole rocker cover (around $250) as the seals aren't replaceable, or you can attempt shoving silicone around the plug tube/seal. The rocker gasket will require replacement also while you are there.

This would also explain the oil burning smell when you turn the heater on.

Did you pull a plug? The last set I changed for someone had a 3mm gap. lol.

Awesome - thanks for the info. I fortunately don't get any burnt oil smell!

Yeah I pulled a couple of plugs - gap was good - also was nice to see good quality platinum plugs in there as its a bi!&ch to get too!

When you launch there is only one way for the oil to go, down on to the turbo. (unless you have a DD?)

I find it fairly easy to get to the plugs, you only need to drop the intake/bov pipe...

Get into the Stagea section above ^^ there is plenty of reading for you to do. :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, yes, every CU on the bus is available via the Consult port, but whether the scanner you are using is capable of talking to the TCU, the ABS/TCS modules, etc etc, is what is at question here. Many of them are only for engine codes. So, if you have one of those, you won't know if the ABS is having a bitch.
    • That's now. R chassis Skylines come from a time when the tolerance in the ADRs was a bit more....slack. My car, on 235/35-17, which is damn near the exact same size as the original 205/55-16, is pretty much bang on correct indicated speed across the whole legal range. That's demonstrated with constant speed run over 5km, and GPS speed. It's just the luck of the draw. My particular speedo head has to be the thing that is "calibrated" that way, because everything else (the diff ratio, the gearbox and the speedo drive**) are all same same as most other Skylines. **OK, so the speedo drive is a Navara unit to drive the R32's cable, not the electronic unit than an R33/4 would normally have with teh same gear on it. Otherwise, I applaud your OCD tendencies, and I would do the same if I needed to.
    • Not too sure, I believe the Nissan consult port does everything? Also just filled up the reservoir to full and the light is still on. The float seems to move up and down fine.
    • The speedo's can be very conservative, when my Mazda NC MX5 speedo is showing 118kph, the GPS, and a calibrated radar.... cop mate.....hits me at around 110kph +/- 1 or 2 kph, and that is on a 215/45 17, stock tyres size is 205/45 17 as well, so weirdly conservative with stock tyre size When my Commodore speedo red 116kph GPS had me at 110kph on 255/40 17, so again conservative Google says manufacturers need to set the speedo from 4 to 10% slower than actual road speed.....for safety.....and compliance  After doing some offset and clearance measurements to see what can fit the NC on 17x8 +40, without guard rolling or rubbing anything at my current ride height, I've decided that when my tyres are toast, I'm going to fit 225/45 17 and see where that gets me IRT actual speed of my speedo and GPS/radar From the online calculator I should be still be doing around 5kph under an actual 110kph when the speedo is showing 110kph My ADHD requires that when I'm doing 110kph on the speedo, that the actual road speed is actually really close to that, and not alot slower And going from 205 to 225 still keeps the car within the %/mm allowable in the NSW vehicle rules and regulations, which is nice, as long as I'm looking at the latest version that is.....LOL https://www.nsw.gov.au/sites/default/files/2021-02/RMS-13.464-Light-vehicle-modifications-Vehicle-Standards-Information-No-6-November-2013.pdf
    • Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
×
×
  • Create New...