Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Just wondering...has anyone here used/is using a carbon prop shaft for their GTRs? Does the performance outweigh the cost?

the Driveshop seems to have relatively decently priced ones... they even have a sydney dealer! :D

http://www.driveshaftshop.com/import-driveshafts/nissan/skyline/nissan-skyline-r34-99-02-awd-gt-r-carbon-fiber-driveshaft

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/426005-prop-shafts/
Share on other sites

i'd only change my standard one for a torqline. more details below. i've read too many complaints about other brands to bother with the cost/hassle if it doesn't perform as expected.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/389865-carbon-driveshafts/

so did the group buy go through?

hows the torqline?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/426005-prop-shafts/#findComment-6870066
Share on other sites

Whenever I've driven Matt's Nur, it's always perfectly smooth and unruffled I'm glad to say.

Compared to my car, the low down pickup (bottom end power) is really strong. At constant high speeds, there's no jitteriness through the seat.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/426005-prop-shafts/#findComment-6870203
Share on other sites

Whenever I've driven Matt's Nur, it's always perfectly smooth and unruffled I'm glad to say.

Compared to my car, the low down pickup (bottom end power) is really strong. At constant high speeds, there's no jitteriness through the seat.

so are u going to get a torqline Terry? ;)

is there a distributor in aus?

as for the driveshaftshop, so far there has been only good reviews from the wrx forums...plus they have a sydney distributor?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/426005-prop-shafts/#findComment-6870824
Share on other sites

It's worth talking to them to assess if their written warranty is offering cash back (if faulty) or only repair. If it's the former, and subject to good reviews (as you say), I'd be prepared to give them a go.

Ask if the warranty is voided due to DIY too. I'd be cautious about that as a get out of jail disclaimer. Anyone with a socket set should be able to do this.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/426005-prop-shafts/#findComment-6870949
Share on other sites

It's worth talking to them to assess if their written warranty is offering cash back (if faulty) or only repair. If it's the former, and subject to good reviews (as you say), I'd be prepared to give them a go.

Ask if the warranty is voided due to DIY too. I'd be cautious about that as a get out of jail disclaimer. Anyone with a socket set should be able to do this.

good and valid points u brought up... will note all this down when i speak to them... ;)

did u see their front and rear axles too? :wub:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/426005-prop-shafts/#findComment-6871408
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...