Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

I've got the following for sale, bought these as extras for my car in the case they got cracked:

2x R34 GTR Brand New OEM Style Carbon Face Bottom Lip With Undertrays (For those who cracked their original ones). - $650/each

2x R34 GTR Brand New OEM Style Carbon Spoiler Blades - $320/each

1x R34 GTR Used Nismo Style Fibreglass Side Skirts - $275/pair (Painted Black - Perfect Fitment - Purchased from JSAI)

1x R34 GTR Used Nismo Style Fibreglass Rear Pods - $185/pair (Painted Black - Perfect Fitment - Purchased from JSAI)

1x Top Secret Style Rear Diffuser in Fibreglass with brackets $450 (Painted Matt Black - Perfect Fitment - Purchased and fitted by Bodyform)


Located in Sydney

Cheers

Gordon

Edited by destrukshn
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/426169-fs-new-used-bnr34-parts-sydney/
Share on other sites

have you got pictures of these items?

2x R34 GTR Brand New OEM Style Carbon Face Bottom Lip With Undertrays (For those who cracked their original ones). - $650/each

2x R34 GTR Brand New OEM Style Carbon Spoiler Blades - $320/each

have you got pictures of these items?

2x R34 GTR Brand New OEM Style Carbon Face Bottom Lip With Undertrays (For those who cracked their original ones). - $650/each

2x R34 GTR Brand New OEM Style Carbon Spoiler Blades - $320/each

Pictures attached :)

Are the diffusers carbon wrapped fibreglass? Do u have pics?

Hmm.. not sure to answer your question, i would guess so? The diffuser is only carbon at the front that is why and not carbon the whole thing. Just for looks :)

Top Secret Style diffuser has been sold everyone!!!! :)

Edited by destrukshn

Will those under trays fit on any 34 gtr front bar? (Presuming they would but just to confirm)

Hi vspecIInur, yep its made to fit the 34 gtr front bar, like standard below the front diffuser.\

I bought these to replace my cracked 34 undertray as the car is too low and it keeps cracking. lol

Bump! Items below still for sale guys!

2x R34 GTR Brand New OEM Style Carbon Face Bottom Lip With Undertrays (For those who cracked their original ones). - $650/each

2x R34 GTR Brand New OEM Style Carbon Spoiler Blades - $320/each

1x R34 GTR Used Nismo Style Fibreglass Side Skirts - $275/pair (Painted Black - Perfect Fitment - Purchased from JSAI)

1x R34 GTR Used Nismo Style Fibreglass Rear Pods - $185/pair (Painted Black - Perfect Fitment - Purchased from JSAI)

Still have a spoiler blade? Are you negotiable at all?

Blade is still available. Prices adjusted below. Prices are firm

2x R34 GTR Brand New OEM Style Carbon Face Bottom Lip With Undertrays (For those who cracked their original ones). - $600/each

2x R34 GTR Brand New OEM Style Carbon Spoiler Blades - $300/each (Bodyform has it for $385)

1x R34 GTR Used Nismo Style Fibreglass Side Skirts - $225/pair (Painted Black - Perfect Fitment - Purchased from JSAI)

1x R34 GTR Used Nismo Style Fibreglass Rear Pods - $150pair (Painted Black - Perfect Fitment - Purchased from JSAI)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you take the top half of the intake off you can unbolt the flap off the shaft and leave the shaft in there blocking the hole. Then you can remove the little vacuum canister off from under the manifold and get a spare vacuum line to run to the ECU. I can take some photos of it later. Probably best to get the vacuum source to the ECU sorted first though. Mine all worked mint with the base map from the GTT an I've pretty much let the closed loop sort the fueling and took 1 degree out of the whole timing map.
    • This IS something you also have to configure in Haltech (or at least I did in the past when going from onboard-to-ECU map sensor and an external MAP sensor in haltech land).
    • I'm hoping it's something as simple as the ECU is looking for an external MAP sensor, but he is trying to use the onboard MAP sensor.
    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
×
×
  • Create New...