Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

a bit of fishing line and some 'bug/tar remover' to get rid of the adhesive and you should be fine.

Personally I don't like the debadged look, it makes me think 'dodgy backyard repair job', but each to their own. Certainly better than having badges in the wrong spots as I have seen on some cars.

I had my badges taken off when i had my boot resprayed from a scratch. At first i liked the debadged look but i kinda want the badges on again.

Problem is, im pretty anal about getting the badges back in the right spot and straight. There doesnt seem to be any information in regards to the exact positioning of the badges :ermm:

If you're going to remove the Skyline badge you may as well get rid of the 350GT i don't think the nissan badge and the 350gt badge without the skyline would look good at all. I prefer my car debadged front and rear, only because these are rare cars and not many people know what they are.

I have heard that if you de-bdage the big nissan badge on the boot, it leaves a mark?? Like a outline of the badge....

can anyone confirm this?

Depends on what color the car is, i have personally seen those outlines you talking about but it was on a Red v35 (very prone to fading) but other colors might be a different story.

doesn't bug/tar remover get rid of that residue? when i bought my car the previous owner looked like he literally attacked the rear nissan badge with a screw driver and left a long/deep scratch where it was.. got the boot resprayed the painted removed the other badges for me.

This is how mine looks, dirty with a boot lip too.

This is after a detail, since removing the skyline badging reveals slight indentations where the lettering used to be.

I used fishing line and bug and tar remover that was in a green spray bottle but never again because it slightly stained the paint, another reason why I had the car detailed.

post-105738-0-64659500-1370235619_thumb.png

Edited by Triggs
  • Like 1

doesn't bug/tar remover get rid of that residue? when i bought my car the previous owner looked like he literally attacked the rear nissan badge with a screw driver and left a long/deep scratch where it was.. got the boot resprayed the painted removed the other badges for me.

I'm not talking about the glue residue, what I'm talking about is the slight indents the "NISSAN" badge will leave after removal.........

does anyone else have this issue after they debadged???

This is how mine looks, dirty with a boot lip too.

This is after a detail, since removing the skyline badging reveals slight indentations where the lettering used to be.

I used fishing line and bug and tar remover that was in a green spray bottle but never again because it slightly stained the paint, another reason why I had the car detailed.

You can't really see it in the photo...so I guess a cut and polish helped you remove the indentations?

does it really leave 'indentations'? or is it just an outline because that part of the paint hasn't seen the sun over the last 10 years?

I wouldn't have thought Nissan would 'indent' the panel for the badges?

I definitely think it looks much cleaner without the skyline wording attached to the boot.

I will attempt to give it ago on a v36.

Anyone done one on a v36?

My V36 is debadged, both the nissan and skyline badges are gone.

292497_10151482112449912_314936203_n.jpg

Got mine off with a heat gun on very low to warm up the glue, then rubbing in small circles with a white cloth and some eucalyptus oil. (I stress white cloth as I used a green microfiber first and it actually transferred color into the paint - had to cut n polish it out with some pretty aggressive compound).

post-22161-13703388815778_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...