Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

a bit of fishing line and some 'bug/tar remover' to get rid of the adhesive and you should be fine.

Personally I don't like the debadged look, it makes me think 'dodgy backyard repair job', but each to their own. Certainly better than having badges in the wrong spots as I have seen on some cars.

I had my badges taken off when i had my boot resprayed from a scratch. At first i liked the debadged look but i kinda want the badges on again.

Problem is, im pretty anal about getting the badges back in the right spot and straight. There doesnt seem to be any information in regards to the exact positioning of the badges :ermm:

If you're going to remove the Skyline badge you may as well get rid of the 350GT i don't think the nissan badge and the 350gt badge without the skyline would look good at all. I prefer my car debadged front and rear, only because these are rare cars and not many people know what they are.

I have heard that if you de-bdage the big nissan badge on the boot, it leaves a mark?? Like a outline of the badge....

can anyone confirm this?

Depends on what color the car is, i have personally seen those outlines you talking about but it was on a Red v35 (very prone to fading) but other colors might be a different story.

doesn't bug/tar remover get rid of that residue? when i bought my car the previous owner looked like he literally attacked the rear nissan badge with a screw driver and left a long/deep scratch where it was.. got the boot resprayed the painted removed the other badges for me.

This is how mine looks, dirty with a boot lip too.

This is after a detail, since removing the skyline badging reveals slight indentations where the lettering used to be.

I used fishing line and bug and tar remover that was in a green spray bottle but never again because it slightly stained the paint, another reason why I had the car detailed.

post-105738-0-64659500-1370235619_thumb.png

Edited by Triggs
  • Like 1

doesn't bug/tar remover get rid of that residue? when i bought my car the previous owner looked like he literally attacked the rear nissan badge with a screw driver and left a long/deep scratch where it was.. got the boot resprayed the painted removed the other badges for me.

I'm not talking about the glue residue, what I'm talking about is the slight indents the "NISSAN" badge will leave after removal.........

does anyone else have this issue after they debadged???

This is how mine looks, dirty with a boot lip too.

This is after a detail, since removing the skyline badging reveals slight indentations where the lettering used to be.

I used fishing line and bug and tar remover that was in a green spray bottle but never again because it slightly stained the paint, another reason why I had the car detailed.

You can't really see it in the photo...so I guess a cut and polish helped you remove the indentations?

does it really leave 'indentations'? or is it just an outline because that part of the paint hasn't seen the sun over the last 10 years?

I wouldn't have thought Nissan would 'indent' the panel for the badges?

I definitely think it looks much cleaner without the skyline wording attached to the boot.

I will attempt to give it ago on a v36.

Anyone done one on a v36?

My V36 is debadged, both the nissan and skyline badges are gone.

292497_10151482112449912_314936203_n.jpg

Got mine off with a heat gun on very low to warm up the glue, then rubbing in small circles with a white cloth and some eucalyptus oil. (I stress white cloth as I used a green microfiber first and it actually transferred color into the paint - had to cut n polish it out with some pretty aggressive compound).

post-22161-13703388815778_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...