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Hey all need some quick info about hoses for boost controlling devices. I don't know alot about the workings of all the controllers, actuators, solenoids etc that control the boost, pressures etc. My car has starting running rough, like its misfiring etc, have checked timing and spark plugs they are fine. I did however find a hose which appears to be broken, and a blank outlet on another solenoid?? from photos in other threads i have seen that they all have a hose attached to this outlet, would i be safe to assume that my broken hose should be attached to this outlet?? and i just need to replace my broken bit?? Photos attached, photo of me holding hose it above the back of the motor, the unattached outlet is mounted on the passenger strut tower behind power steering fluid bottle.

Fix is urgent as the missus needs the car to go to wedding appointments on Tues, using it is her only option, and with mechanics etc. not open tomorrow, i am turning to everyone for help. Please

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post-76834-0-80402700-1370748187_thumb.jpg

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Pretty sure that is the boost solenoid witch makes it hit full boost past 4500rpm

guessing u wouldnt need it with a boost controller

I would be checking coilpacks

Edited by Tommmay

Photos are not much help. Is the boost solenoid being used? If so it should have another hose coming off the top. By all means replace the dodgy hose and if that doesn't fix it look for boost leaks - coil packs are next!

that's my problem i dont know what should be connected/used etc. i have a boost controller, i know that. i don't know where the dodgy hose is supposed to go to. as i only have the one end of it. the other empty outlet that i photographed is the only empty one i can find,

edit* and if that solenoid should be used where should that hose go to?? is that definately my mysterious broken one??

Edited by Pft shh 89

Checked the plugs and they were worse than i originally thought they would so started changing them, coils are splitfires with no evidence of arcing at all. Now i have more issues as #6 was tough to get out and now trying to get back in have realised it had been cross threaded so won't go in properly......so what's the fix for that?? buy a new head??

Hey mate,

More symptoms would probably help too. But here is how the standard hoses go in the RB25DET Neo Motor (WGNC34 manual)

Suction side of the compressor.

Photo 1: looking over the engine at the passenger side strut tower.

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1 is the top port of the sensor

2 is the bottom port of the sensor

3 essentially is the waste gate actuator pressure, (I suppose you could loop this straight to 2, but... i reckon smarter engineers than me at Nissan know why not...)

Photo 2: looking from where the airbox should be to the waste gate actuator of the turbo and the exhaust side of the engine.

post-86591-0-54523100-1370853444_thumb.jpg

3 and 2 combine from above then go to the waste gate actuator.

1 goes to the plumback or BOV return line and is measuring, what I assume is compressor suction side vacuum.

Pressure side of the piping, (across the top of the engine, just before the throttle body)

Photo 3: Looking from the drivers side, at the top of the engine cover.

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1 comes from the aluminium pipe, across the top of the RB25

the red cloudy bubble is either a filter or a non return valve, dunno, but it is directional.

2 is the upstream side of the throttle body, pressure sensor.

*the purple mess in the background is a Greedy S14 BOV that the grubs that stole my car put on. I am still waiting for the stock gasket from nissan (2 weeks ex Japan) so I can put the standard one back on... that is why the airbox is missing too, they did their dodgy mods.

The importer couldnt fix my car after he did all the compliance. I got it cheap ($10k on the road with 67,000km ;-) because it was missing badly at 4500rpm. I put in 80c worth of rubber hose (photo 3) and wrapped the coils in leco tape and black gasket goo, and put in new plugs and it ran fine. Long story short, the integrity of these hoses do matter if you have the stock computer. I had planned on doing the silicone hose job, but never got round to it...

Rock on fellah!

Mely

Thanks mely, those photos help a fair bit. Photo 1, Hose 1 is definately the blank outlet that i have, ie i have no hose on there. Photo three isn't quite the right angle i think, i have that hose with the filter/non return valve (whatever it is). I beleive the broken hose is on that part with the blue electrical connection, it has a solenoid with two side by side outlet/inlets the left side goes over to the intake manifold and the right side is the one that i have about 8 inches of, it has a couple molded bends in it with a second hose (heat shield) slipped over the top. any clues as to where that goes?? Also i have a feeling that where Photo 2, hose 1 is connected to the plumback pipe is where they have connected my boost controller to. I'll have to double check that tomorrow after work when it's light to be sure.

Also this fix is slightly less urgent now as the missus was able to postpone plans, and we can steal my mothers car some days. Still need to get mine back on the road though.....

So i found a good photo of the hose i found broken, its the one near the top of this photo immediately to the left of the blue electrical connector. If anyone could tell me where this goes I would be very appreciative

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/uploads/1264243504/gallery_34711_3643_89247.jpg

I can't see a broken hose in your pic. Your best bet is to post up your location and find a member who has a few clues as to how things work to come and have a look -should be able to sort it out quickly if it is just a plumbing problem.

i'm in townsville, nth qld, there is like 5 stageas in my whole town, as far as i know none are on here. the pic i just posted is not my car, was just a random pic i found in another thread that had a really good angle. the 3rd and 4th pic in original post is my car. the broken hose is the one that shoots up out of the engine bay to the left of the photo frame.

What type of boost controller are you using??

The stock boost solenoid which (the one on the passenger strut tower) is controlled by the ECU so when the engine is below 4500RPM then it's running 5psi and then after 4500RPM its running 7-8 psi...usually if you are running a boost controller, this is bypassed and plug is earthed so the ECU is told that its in high boost mode

The other photo you grabbed is a MAP Sensor for boost. To quote QWK32 - "It seems that the only function of this MAP sensor is purely to let the ecu know if a certain boost limit, which is ~14psi, has been reached or exceeded and plays no part in the general running of the engine or tune"

Now you're saying its the hose from the left of the blue connector switch (which is the Canister Purge Control Valve). That hose runs to a hard line that is under the crossover pipe that connects to another pipe which runs all the way to the canister on the passenger side (right at the front)...

Hope it helps (I have a diagram of the vacuum hoses for RB25DET if you need it)

Profec B spec II is the controller, ok so that would i guess explain why i don't have anything connected to that top outlet, and yeah i have that MAP sensor connected via the one way valve/filter thing so that is ok as it's still standard turbo etc not going anywhere 14psi. This canister you speak of is that the black coke can-ish sized cylinder right behind the passenger headlight?? if so is it important?? ie critical that it is connected, because that is the hose thats broken on mine, will have to trace the pipes back from the canister to see how much i am missing.

yep that's it...that's the Carbon Canister

Is it important...I would say definately...it's for emissions (it's job is to store fuel vapours from the tank and then purges into inlet manifold)...

I would replace the line since that is the hose is broken as you have mentioned.

Ok so after being to the mechanic to fix a stripped spark plug hole, they found that one of my intercooler pipes was to long causing the silicone joiner to work itself of over the last year and a bit. So they haven't shortened and double clamped it back on, problem solved. Also found where the top hose that is broken goes to and its the join directly underneath the intake pipe so i will go down to supercheap and grab 9 inches (8 inches of loose hose on the top side, and 1 inch that is still hiding under intake) of rubber hose and fix that up. The missus also made all wedding appointments so is still happy, (thanks to mostly mum for the loan of her car, and 1 hellish ride for me on the back of my bros crotch rocket). Thanks to all who have replied to this thread.

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