Alternator Charging Voltage Differences ? Bnr32

[GTRAAH]

Hi guys,

I just want to understand a few things as I just replaced my alternator as some weird things have been happening like charge dropping below 10.8 volts as per turbo timer display... and Power steering level actually cut out once and my steering went hard whilst driving, this actually happen the same time the voltage dropped to 10.8 so I linked the 2 together .. this has never happened before.. after I stopped the car and restarted it, power steering came back but the turbo timer display was showing 12.0-12.1... but everything seems ok turbo timer always usually shows 12v as being the regular voltage level... anyway if I leave the car off for 2 days even with the alarm off (micro sensor) . The car will struggle to start .. basically at 9.5 v as I am kicking it over once it Kicks over and starts, it would sit on 12.0 v whilst driving, Another weird thing at those times when I'd leave the car for 2 days and struggle to start, well the Digital clock would not appear until I drive for while and get the charge back up and then Id have to turn the car off and back on for the clock to appear again. So got the shits and I bought the the RH9 Hyper alternator 130a Larger than normal, hope I did the right thing.

Note: Battery has been changed twice in 2 years.. this is not an every day car

1. Weird thing is my turbo time only shows 12.3-12.4 But when I look at my Power FC it shows around 12.8v sometimes reaching 13.0.13.1 But its always show around 0.5v more than the turbo timer. But what shows the real voltage is inside the bay when i put the multimeter on it, it shows 14v .. So why does the turbo time and power fc show different voltages?

2. Also has anyone seen weird things happen like the above explained when voltage gets low or alternator not charging right?

3. What is the point of an larger alternator what are the benefits that I should see? if any

[GTRAAH]

SOrry maybe I didnt make it clear .. Since I changed my alternator, no Dropping volts and no power steering cut off... and I am yet to see if I leave the car off for awhile till the battery almost drains and see if the famous R32 gtr digital clock display stops showing whilst driving after 1st start...

I was told this could of been happening cause of the weak alternator using all its energy to try to recharge the battery back to full and thats the reason when you stop and restart the car for the 2nd time but this time the battery is practically full, the clock reappears again.

Your input on all this would be great.. if anyone has had similar issues doesn't have to be the exact same thing but other weird things happening from weak or bad alternator, Clock Disappearing and reappearing on low voltage, Power steering cut off etc...

NOTE: the digital clock was brought brand new of Nissan OEM less than 2 years ago. My other clock never powered on from the day I got the car fresh from Jap (2006)

Edited June 10, 2013 by GTRAAH

[niZmO_Man]

When my alternator was dying, the car would spaz out. Clock dying (now works once every six months for about 5 seconds haha), HICAS going spastic, struggling to start.

2nd hand alternator and it was sweet. I should get the old one rebuilt.

BNR32s are very sensitive to voltage drops.

The larger capacity alternator means you can put more load on the system (e.g. pumps, big audio, fridge, bazillion neons, etc.).

That alternator you got is very expensive.

[MrStabby]

Ok, so you're alternator was stuffed and you've fixed that. If you're not seeing the full battery voltage at other places, that either means there's another component in the circuit that's using power (so you're measuring at the wrong point), or you have a bad connection.

If you're using the car less than once a month think about leaving it on a trickle charger.

FWIW the factory spec is to have 13.9 to 14.9v with accessories off at 2000rpm.

[GTRAAH]

Thanks for the replies guys make me feel better .... I finally worked it out

Guess what it was, Well I was driving around yesterday and it did the exact same thing as the older alternator ???

It was the 2 black connector clips that go into the positive terminal... So I threw out my good perfectly good alternator and spent money on a better one for nothing Wow how mad was that ay!.... LOL man if I could count the stupid things ($) i have thrown at this car for no reason... I would do my head in.

I am trying to look at the upside ... At Least I have a powerful alternator for somewhere down the track.... And how much would a second hand good alternator go for? This is how much I threw in the bin... I tried to get it out of my freinds recycle bin in time but the garbage collectors came

So now it sits on 13.7-14v with stereo Amp, and woofer. Plus I have other gadgets, computer, Turbo timer, boost controller etc...

But guys when I start the car fresh it starts at 13.2v and it creeps up to 14v within 2-5 min of driving... I just want to check if this is normal? Or should it should up to 13.7-14v at first start. My auto elec seems to think thats normal. But if you guys dont think its normal I may clean those connectors more... All he did was pull the plug and squeezed the metal pinns closer together so that when you push it back in it is tight. They wore out and stretched and basically became loose and were not tight connected if you can picture what I am saying.

[niZmO_Man]

Those damned fusible links!