Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys/girls,

a few weeks back my front-right caliper started leaking fluid from the top outer piston, so obviously time for a rebuild...

Got my kit today and first time ever opening up calipers, followed a rough guide and managed to pop all the pistons out using an air compressor, replaced all the seals, but the only seals the rebuild kit didn't come with are the 2 small ones ( 8mm wide, 6mm hole, 3mm thick approx. ) I managed to have lost one when popping the pistons out. It is one of the the seals (or O-ring) that sits between the caliper split, where the fluid passage is, I went to supercheap/autobarn/autoone/bursons, and none of them supplied or could get them, the closest thing I could find was in an O-Ring assortment which is the exact same size and fit, but it is round rather than flat edged (or square O-Ring if you will).

I've fitted it on now but I'm not entirely convinced it will work as I'm still yet to bleed the system and actually test it out, but for peace of mind sakes I'd still like to get some and fit it. Does anyone know the exact measurement and/or where I could get some? I would really appreciate if you could help me out! :)

Thanks in advanced!

I would not even think about using that caliper without the correct o-ring in place.

Sadly none of the replacement sumitomo seal kits I've ever seen contain that particular o-ring.

It's ur brakes dude go buy another kit and fix it right $50 For seals is cheaper than losing ur brakes

As #@Daleo said, that specific O-Ring is NOT included in any of the kits as Sumitomo strongly advises you don't split the calipers. I've found a website http://www.mcmaster.com that definitely has the O-Ring I'm looking for (going by other forum posts, unfortunately they don't link the specific one or mention the measurements), so now I'm just looking for the measurements and I'll order them in ASAP.

If I can't find the measurements or no one knows, I'll measure them myself tomorrow night.

Thanks though guys, really appreciate it!

i have split calipers in the past, make sure you dont damage the machine surfaces and torque them up right and they should be fine, get the right seals and it should be good and just makes sure u test the brakes well!! what brand of seals do you guys use, Nissan?? the seal kit i got last year seemed like the dust seals were less of a quality than the factory ones i pulled off.

cool, where did you get them from??

They were just a lucky Ebay find; the guy was using a GT-t front cut to re-power an R31; and had no use for the brakes.

I think they'd done very little work. You can buy OEM seal kits; so they should be fine; they just don't contain the sandwich O-ring.

If you took a sample to an industrial Hydraulics Specialist (not Pirtek) that does work with large valve banks and the like; they might be able to match it up.

I guess you won't really know until it happens. And at that point it may be too late. :/

Did you soak the O-ring overnight in brake fluid prior to installation; to ensure it wouldn't swell/degrade?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hopefully it ends up being something manageable, like a hone, rather than a full bore—it would be a huge relief if it’s not as bad as it looks. Hang in there; these setbacks are annoying, but it sounds like you’re handling it as smartly as possible.
    • At the end of the day, it’s all about understanding the odds and being comfortable with the potential cost, whether it’s horsepower on a build or chips on a roulette table. And I have to say, the Laine example made me laugh—some people really do embrace that carefree, “roll and see” attitude!
    • Thanks MBS206, i got that PDF but got abit overhelm with all the connections and tracing of wires. I wasn't expecting to plug the dash harness anywhere. i was just going to use my electronics jumper wires to plug into the right pins like ECU power, ecu ground, ignition trigger etc... I do have a few ratchet straps locking it down tight. Fire extinguisher ready and only a small amount of fuel at a time, enough to submerge the pump.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, i will do abit more digging. I am missing a blue relay near the ECU connector... so i will chase that up in the next few days as well  
    • https://yariksteel.ru/manual/R33/Skyline_R33_elektroprovodka.pdf   Page 18 should be what you want for the Dash Cluster wiring. Though, you don't need the dash plugged in to get the motor running. What you want is power as how GTSBoy said. You need to power the ECU. Find in the above link the ECU pin outs (Verify them before just connecting them up from things written on the internet). Find anything needing power, give it power, find anything needing ground, give it ground. Then give the starter motor power through a big cable, and bridge the solenoid on the starter straight to power too.  ECU will be on, and when you give the starter power, it'll spin the starter motor, and it should start. I also hope you have a proper stand, and not just the engine sitting on some wood. You will want it bolted down properly.
×
×
  • Create New...