Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

post-71338-0-43605800-1371011092_thumb.jpg

This is my r31 skyline, bought it when I was about 15 years old off the r31 skyline club.

post-71338-0-97613300-1371011549_thumb.jpg

Got involved in the whole r31 "scene" and got my mum to take me on car crews as many weekends in a row as possible.

post-71338-0-12756500-1371011581_thumb.jpg

post-71338-0-10630400-1371011663_thumb.jpg

post-71338-0-02658600-1371011688_thumb.jpg

As you can see the car is a series 3 silo, with an rb30 with minor mods such as-

Auto spoiler, projectors, exhaust, neat little intake setup, pedders struts spings, whiteline swaybars and nolathane bushes throughout.

post-71338-0-42776100-1371011842_thumb.jpg

post-71338-0-16265800-1371011875_thumb.jpg

post-71338-0-77578400-1371011914_thumb.jpg

Some of you may know that this was ED's car, ed was/is a perfectionist and sold me the car in awesome condition.

Was an awesome little buy that's for sure!

post-71338-0-18451000-1371012038_thumb.jpg

So I attended my first ever track day at skyline nationals 2010 in Adelaide which happened to work out perfectly for me as I was moving to good old Roxby downs to work in the mines at exactly the same time (originally from wellington NSW)

So I did the trip all in one go, moved house and attended the skyline nationals, still not having my p's at the age of 17 meant I dragged mum along aswell.

post-71338-0-20912500-1371012698_thumb.jpg

post-71338-0-18174900-1371012735_thumb.jpg

post-71338-0-75857800-1371012755_thumb.jpg

post-71338-0-33766800-1371012802_thumb.jpg

post-71338-0-48823000-1371012824_thumb.jpg

post-71338-0-72701000-1371012851_thumb.jpg

Was a good learning experience, anyway, moved out of home to SA to work in the mines, got my p's got some money together and decided to spend some of it-

post-71338-0-29741700-1371012979_thumb.jpg

coilovers- 6kg rear 8kg front Angry industries U-weld coilovers

post-71338-0-27040400-1371013014_thumb.jpg

Wheels- 18" work eurolines

post-71338-0-74996300-1371013109_thumb.jpg

spacers for the front,

import brakes (struts foul on gts1 wheels without spacers)

HEL braided brake lines

and adjustable castor rods

post-71338-0-76898900-1371013228_thumb.jpg

Junk Garage Parts supplied me a new FRP vented bonnet

Looked quite good in my opinion, was loving it, but something was still missing.....

  • 2 weeks later...

ENGINE BUILD OVERVIEW- not including all parts/modifications


Nitto high volume rb oil pump
Nitto h-beam connecting rods
Nitto crank collar
Nitto high compression custom pistons- These are a top of the line custom piston to suit a big RB30 NA engine build using an RB26 head being undertaken by Nitto South Australian Dealer Garage 7. Piston features are: 12:1 static compression ratio, asymmetric style forging, under crown milling, skirt window milling, under side oil shed coating, tuff skirt coating, thermal barrier crown coating, custom valve relief cut, contact reduction grooves, accumulator groove, custom select pins and rings.
ACL Race bearings - mains / connecting rods
ACL Race ProSeal engine gasket kit
Brian crower 1mm oversize valves
Ross metal jacket balancer with cam / crank trigger kit
N1 water pump
Nismo low temp thermostat
Oil restrictors
Camtech RB26 camshafts- Camtech RB26 431A grind, Duration - 280 ADV IN / EX. Valve Lift - 10.8mm IN / EX
Camtech valve springs and titanium retainer kit
Custom made ITB setup
XSpurt injectors
Heavily ported cylinder head
Link G4 Storm ECU
Genuine Nissan front / rear seals, idler and tensioner
Custom Gates belt

IGN-1A race coils

Ill think of the rest eventually lol

Edited by Wayne.

Awesome, loving it. Should sound nice too. Did a 31 with a mate a couple of years back, was mainly a panel and paint project but made 109kw with very basic mods, was stacks of fun but would of been 10 times better with a engine like yours in it! Good work.

Awesome engine build!

My R32 started out life with the RB25DE engine... I loved the sound and throttle response. I was very tempted to swap the bottom end for the RB30, but went down the boring (and more cost effective route) of an engine swap to a RB25DET.

Will be very interested to see how you get on.

  • 2 weeks later...

So ive had a bit of progress on the intake side of things, the filters will be getting trimmed down, I also have another piece that bolts on to make it like forward facing plenum to run a pod filter.

2hd199i.jpg

2s98y9w.jpg

hu0nb8.jpg

Very very cool, very cool. Engine is looking badass. Should sound fantastic too. I would guess 140-150 on 98? Judging by a mates basic 30 with cheapie eBay chip and very basic mods and mild cam. Twin cam 12:1 with better ecu and better everything else should see mid 150's I would think? E85 who knows. Shouldn't be too far off your expectations!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey y'all! I'm curious about how y'all go about widebodying your cars. I noticed that when running a square setup, my front wheels are a bit more tucked in than my rear wheels. Not by much, maybe 5-10mm. This leads me to wonder - when I widebody, should I use narrower front flares and wider rear flares? I found a set of 40mm rear flares that I really like, and was thinking of pairing them with some 18mm front flares, but I don't want the car to look strange. How have others done this? Note, I'm in a sedan. Thanks!
    • And if it was anything other than an auto tranny part, it might be a problem. But seeing as all auto trannies belong in the recycling bin, it's fine.
    • I have an R32 Fenix rad. It is good.
    • All the schemas I can see, indicate your typical setup of ATF 'cooler' (read: heat exchanger) in the bottom radiator tank..ie; https://nissan.epc-data.com/stagea/wgnc34/5413-rb25det/engine/214/ ...but I can prattle on a bit here. These trannies have a thermistor in the sump ~ the TCU reads this and 1. bumps the line pressure up when the ATF is 'cold' and 2. prevents the TC lockup clutch from operating, until the ATF comes up to minimum operating temp (keeps the ATF 'churning' through the TC so it heats up quicker) -- trigger point is around 55C. In these conditions, the engine coolant temperature rises faster than the ATF temperature, and also helps heat the ATF up, which is why it's best to think of the in radiator tank setup as a heat exchanger ; the heat can flow in both directions... ...with these trannies, the 'hot' ATF comes out the front banjo bolt, flows through the cooler/heat exchanger, and returns to the box  via the rear banjo bolt. This gets a mention, due to the wildly different opinions wrt running auto trans fluid coolers ~ do you bypass the in radiator tank altogether, or put the cooler inline with the in radiator tank system...and then, do you put the additional cooler before of after the in radiator tank system?... ....fact is the nominal engine operating temp (roughly 75C), happens to be the ideal temperature for the ATF used in these trannies as well (no surprises there), so for the in radiator tank system to actually 'cool' the ATF, the ATF temp has to be hotter than that...lets say 100C -- you've got 25C of 'excess' heat, (slowly) pumping into the 75C coolant. This part of the equation changes drastically, when you've got 100C ATF flowing through an air cooled radiator ; you can move a lot more excess heat, faster ~ it is possible to cool the ATF 'too much' as it were...(climate matters a lot)... ...in an 'ideal' setup, what you're really trying to control here, is flash heating of the ATF, primarily produced by the TC interface. In a perfect world, wrt auto trans oil cooling, you want a dedicated trans cooler with builtin thermostatic valving - they exist. These should be run inline and before the in radiator tank system ~ when 'cold' the valving bypasses the fin stack, allowing the ATF to flow direct to the in radiator tank heat exchanger, so it works 'as intended' with helping heat the ATF up. When 'hot' (iirc it was 50C threshold), the valving shuts forcing the ATF through the cooler fin stack, and onto the in radiator tank heat exchanger...and you sort of think of it as a 'thermal conditioner' of sorts...ie; if you did cool your ATF down to 65C, the coolant will add a little heat, otherwise it works as intended... ...the 'hot' ATF coming from the front bango bolt, is instantiated from the TC when in use, so all/any flash heated oil, flows to the fluid-to-air cooler first, and because of the greater heat differential, you can get rid of this heat fast. Just how big (BTU/h) this cooler needs to be to effectively dissipate this TC flash heat, is the charm...too many variables to discuss here, but I just wanted to point out the nitty-gritty of automatic trans fluid coolers ~ they're a different beastie to what most ppl think of when considering an 'oil cooler'... /3.5cents   
    • Been a busy but productive day. Axle and hubs acquired. All fitted up after a bit of modifying. Need to sort out wider mudguards and running light reflector covers but other than that the trailer is gooood to go !!
×
×
  • Create New...