Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi there, i have a "00 rsfour stagea with the rb25NEO and i am trying to figure out wether i've blown my piston rings or turbo.

i've searched but havent been able to find anything about this so if theres a thread about this please just send me a link or tell me where to look.

now, i was driving along the freeway at around 130km/h and doing a few pulls and playing around with the gears and spooling the turbo up as it's my first turbo car and had only driven it from where i bought it so far. as i pulled of the freeway and stopped at an intersection without any warning the car just starts blowing smoke and ran rough as anything and just felt like it was stalling and starting up again so i limped it downhill to a carpark and shut it off. when i started it i held the revs around 3,000rpm and it blew smoke like crazy but didnt feel like it was misfiring at all, but as soon as the revs dropped below 2,500rpm it would completely drop like it was stalling and starting again and i couldnt bring the revs back up.

i have the turbo off and just played around with it and there is a bit of play in the shaft and when i spin the the blades i can see oil coming down the blades from inside the turbo.

so i really need help with this before i fork out money for a turbo or rings.

any help is appreciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/427036-rb25neo-blown-turbo/
Share on other sites

you guys don't think if he did a seal in the turbo it would put the oil into the air and into the cylinders/plugs and it would smoke and run rough? My R33 did the smoke/run like a pig thing when my fuel pump shat itself and it leaned out and destroyed the ring lands on the pistons(amongst other things) but that was white smoke, what colour smoke was yours?

you guys don't think if he did a seal in the turbo it would put the oil into the air and into the cylinders/plugs and it would smoke and run rough? My R33 did the smoke/run like a pig thing when my fuel pump shat itself and it leaned out and destroyed the ring lands on the pistons(amongst other things) but that was white smoke, what colour smoke was yours?

cheers guys for the other ideas, havent even looked at the cooler yet, but when i took the turbo out one of the cooler pipes had oil all around it. and my fuel was on empty pretty much so i could've done something to the pump

you guys don't think if he did a seal in the turbo it would put the oil into the air and into the cylinders/plugs and it would smoke and run rough? My R33 did the smoke/run like a pig thing when my fuel pump shat itself and it leaned out and destroyed the ring lands on the pistons(amongst other things) but that was white smoke, what colour smoke was yours?

also it was blue smoke pouring out the exhaust

yea had the cooler pipe off for a while and cleaned it up when i did. but all through the cold side and into the throttle body there was a fair bit of oil so im hoping its the turbo, if it was seals the oil would be on the echaust side of the turbo and not through the intake? that make sense or am i just rambling like the rb noob i am? :P

Is there bucket loads of oil or just residue?

Your blowby vents back into the intake on stock cars and does cause the whole intake to look rather grubby over time.

If you were mopping a litlre of oil out of the cooler pipes i would plug up the oil feed and return to the turbo and do a comp test to make sure the engine is ok. If its only a whole stack of gunk stuck to the sides of the pipework i would put my cash on it being a turbo.

How wet is the turbine wheel of the turbo? is it soaked with oil?

turbine was clean but i also didnt get the turbo off for a few days but just spinning it in my hand i had oil coming down the blades. and it looks pretty gumky but not litres at all. it didnt drip out of the pipes or anything.

im gonna try get a new turbo first get that back together then do a comp test as im getting a bit lost with all the parts in my garage.

I would say you just blew a cooler hose off somewhere

Cause if the turbo blew an oil seal it wouldn't idle rough but just blow smoke and if the turbine wheel was dry wont be a turbo seal as oil won't dry up

And a light film of oil in the intake of the turbo is normal blow by

i think the smoke was caused by the turbo seal (just going with the general advice i've been getting). not saying your wrong by any means because im not really in a position to doubt anybody haha. comp test definately if it keeps smoking up im just really hoping it is the turbo

I would say you just blew a cooler hose off somewhere
Cause if the turbo blew an oil seal it wouldn't idle rough but just blow smoke and if the turbine wheel was dry wont be a turbo seal as oil won't dry up
And a light film of oil in the intake of the turbo is normal blow by

Come on guys really? It would never blow blue smoke unless there is OIL IN THE COMBUSTION CHAMBER........ A blown cooler pipe will NOT cause oil to pour into the cylinders, only a few things could cause the problem stated and judging by the description it sounds like a blown piston, however u start with the cheap stuff,

Pull out the plugs first, look at the condition of the plugs, if the are covered in oil it will confirm you have oil getting into the engine before the intake manifold, if only one or two plugs are covered n oil then it an internal issue localised to those cylinders. If you hav an exploded plug then its lookin bad for the motor, Next do a compression test, if all cylinders come up good its more likely to be turbo or valve stem seals, start with those simple checks then let us kno what results you get

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...