Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so in second and third if you get it up to baout 4700 4800 rpm it starts to go from the ususal brrrrrr to bdrbdrbdbrbdbrbdbr kind of sounds al lose acceleration and just pretty much peak

what could be the cause. ask if more info is needed

its a 1994 r33 rb25det

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/427101-r33-spittinglosing-powed/
Share on other sites

Once your airflow reaches a set level as measured by the Air Flow Meter it will richen your fuel map and retard the timing to protect the motor. This is assuming you have the stock ECU of course

And while the coil packs mat be new the loom probably isnt.

I would

1. Change plugs.

2. Clean the contacts in the coil packs between the pug and the coil pack AND coil pack and loom

3. Use the contact cleaner on your AFM element

If the problem persists turn your boost down until it stops, you are effectively reducing your airflow below the threshold doing this.

if it still persists think of ordering a new loom from nissan

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The car remains in paint jail. I am now pretty convinced that the whole "RB25 Airboxes are kinda limiting to ~300kw" could be a thing. Also saw a good video from Engine Masters: (Sorry for FB link) (https://www.facebook.com/watch/?ref=search&v=761771519471924&external_log_id=c10bcbb6-2c39-4ff3-9240-287e9921fde6&q=Cold Air Considerations) Where they tested Pod Filter sizes and kept adding bends to a LS3 on an Engine Dyno to find if bends caused power loss. It's a good video worth watching - They did lose ~25hp from making an intake which had 3x90's and a 120 degree. They only lost maybe 1hp with a basic 90. I feel that by sealing up my airbox I have: 1) Created the same restriction a stock airbox would have. 2) Created a very convoluted set of intake 'pipes' by forcing all the air through the ducts. So I am pretty confident I'll be going full circle and have a huge hot air intake pod and actually see a benefit. The air does *not* stay hot once it gets flowing, aided by the ducts, and the pod can then pull air from anywhere. All the posts of yore talk about the stock airbox costing 10-15kw at 300kw+ but you know what? I f**king would very much like that 10-15kw and I remember my own pod filter in engine bay experiences. Turns out the GTT Reo and Headlight brackets really don't allow you to mount GTR items, no matter what the internet says. Various brackets have had to be made up to actually make it fit right for the front bar. Also some idiot mounted a 3L Accusump right where the bumper wants to go, so that has had to be 'relocated' To where, I am still not sure, but it's supposedly mounted in the pictures and I can't see it.
    • Sounds like the oil pressure light is wired into the oil temp sensor... As it warms up, resistance on temp sensor reduces, hence more current can flow and the dash light gets brighter.
    • Got the front subframe and suspension in.    
    • If it's cold in summer, then no issue. If it's cutting out every few seconds and you're not reaching your target temp, then there's an issue. One could be the pressure switch and the other issue could be the temp probe inside the evaporator.
×
×
  • Create New...