Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Electronic Boost Controller Setup

tndesigns

By tndesigns,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

tndesigns Rookie

tndesigns

Posted
Posted

Hey dont know if im in the right area, but i need help installing a HDI Boost controller the one with one dial.

Anyone fitted one of these before and has a drawing? Also i tried and dial is all the way down and when im in 2nd and put the foot down its like it hessitates and then BOV is a big ass air noise louder than normal

anyway hope someone can help :)

tndesigns Rookie

tndesigns

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks it was i had the presure line connected to the pipe connecting to the pod filter :/ all connected right now?

Hey also any ideas why my gauges turn off when headlights are on and no there not connected to the light switch just normal power and earth? dodgy brought car wiring i think LOL

Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted

that line to the pod filter needs to be blocked off..

You need the line from the OEM hotpipe to go into the boost controller and then into the turbo's wastegate actuator. Also it appears you've connected your gauge wrong, hence it turns off..

most gauges have

-ve -> goes to ground

+ve -> goes to igntion +ve

+ve illumination -> goes to light source, easiest it your cigarette ligher's light.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      WGNC34 - floor mats

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I dunno about that as a blanket statement. Pitwork is Nissan's "Nissan genuine" thing, and for stuff like timing belts, I have found them to be excellent. Of course, for things like oil filters, you always use proper trusted brands anyway, not whatever the OEM has taken to using.
    • MBS206
      R34 Skyline climate control unit transistor

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Ahhhh... If you were putting 12V to the led in there, that's likely made it very unhappy. Chances are how you put power, was 12V across an LED that's meant to only have about 20mA through it at peak, and a forward voltage of about 1.8 to 2.4 volts. That circuit is likely only a 3V3 circuit, and will have a resistor in series with the led too. That's my guesstimate on that light, without having touched one.
    • Murray_Calavera
      Tein Circuit Master- rebuild worth it?

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Another vote for installing them and see how you go.  I mean, you already own them, why would you not fit them? 
    • Duncan
      NC MX5

      By Duncan · Posted

      I have had too many of those over the years, my cars have a toolkit or at minimum a cheapy multi tool thing because its too easy to be snookered by some stupid plastic clip that stops you checking the battery terminal isn't loose.
    • Duncan
      WGNC34 - floor mats

      By Duncan · Posted

      Basically, if there is a part# on the nissan catalogue, it is a genuine part. There is a thing called "new old stock" which is stuff made years ago but never sold (or landfilled), but it is super hit and miss what you can buy. Other than some expensive Nismo stuff there is nothing new being made that suits these cars. The only time to be a little careful is (mostly in the US I think, but maybe Japan too), Nissan started rebranding some cheap crap maintenance parts like oil filters as "Pitworks"; stay away from them, if you are buying cheap just buy whatever the local car parts shop carries The three part numbers have an explanation on Amayama: 0V005 is auto, base style 0V015 is manual 0V505 is auto, hectic momo branded ones, maximum F&F points there!
×
×
  • Create New...