Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a IHI RHC7 turbo on my RB26.
I removed it last week because I need to fit a bigger turbine housing. The one that was bolted was really tiny.
So I removed the old turbine housing and discovered that my turbine has a weird blades cut. It's not a cut back or clipping. The cut is done at a different place.
A portion of the "major diameter" area working at the inlet side has been cut to be now the same diameter as the "minor area working at the exhaust side.
So we can conclude that there is an area where the blades of the turbine are now NOT tangent with the turbine housing, where the diameter is progressively reduced.
WTF is it intented for?
What effect does it have on spool up and top end?
Here are pics of my wheel and pics of a stock wheel.

Please, Turbo gurus, help needed!

post-46574-0-03590100-1372250706_thumb.jpg

post-46574-0-77793000-1372250722_thumb.jpg

I don't think its cut, I think the design of the wheel is just different to what you were expecting.

My wheel looks like a pyramid shape. Its got some tiny dents on the fins from no idea what went into it. I was going to send it back to Tao to get it fixed and he said he would shave about a mm or what necessary to remove the imperfections. When asked what this would do to performance, he said there might be tiny gains up top.

Edited by SargeRX8

Check the depth of the housing to the old blades and see how far off they were.

By cutting it back where you are saying they have, I think, would reduce exhaust temps by passing gasses onto the exducer much faster. If it has been cut there and you are sure of it, it's possibly to do with the small housing it has

I do confirm there is space between housing and blades at the place where it should be tangent.

I came at the same conclusion that it's made tu reduce backpressure, but now that I'm going to fit a bigger housing, I would like to ensure I will not loose too much energy to reach my power needs.

In fact, this wheel is now half way between Ptrim and GT35R wheel, so, knowing that I'm looking for 600bhp, it should do the job, but I wanted to share with better knowledged guys.

By trimming down the inducer height can result in increasing of response as gas velocity is higher when they squeezing though smaller gap. Been used on a smaller engine previous perhaps assume it had the right turbine housing, or it might be be people experiencing concepts.

To make this work the turbine housing needs to be sleeved up to the height of the wheel tip then machined to suit the wheel profile. Can be done.

THanks,

The housing profile does what is drawed in green on the pic => so one half of the gases section hits the big diameter of the blades and one other half hits the small (and final) diameter of the blades.

I actually get 1.2bar boost peak at 3700RPM with the tiny housing (I measured the A/R and it's .40 A/R !!!!!), but the engine then chokes at 300whp.

Is it worth putting a bigger housing and keeping this wheel?

Well, with the current turbine housing on it won't make any differences compare to before the turbine wheel was grinded.

We can supply a .63 or .82 turbine housing that is machined to suit your wheel. With a customized wheel it is hard to approximate the output.

LOL OH, had no idea you were in Europe.

Even though it comes on very early at present I am not sure that will be the case with the new housing... But a reasonable turbo outfit in your area should be able to machine a sleeve as noted by Stao. I would definitely look at doing that, rather than running it as is.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for doing that Duncan! Makes you a good person in my books. We don't get kangaroos or wombats here. But we have bats and it's similar. AFAIK it's often the mums with a baby attached that get hit because they drop lower when starting from a tree. If you hit an animal, check on it. https://www.ifaw.org/au/resources/wildlife-rescue-app An app to get the closest wildlife rescue contact.
    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
×
×
  • Create New...