Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On any car of great worth, I believe that it should be insured comprehensively, rather than at market value. A GT-R will be such a car.

On a car worth less than $10,000 but above $4,000, I might be tempted to insure it at market value - but maybe not.

If the car is worth less than $4,000 I might only pay for third party property insurance.

Sum Insured/Premium ratio depends on too many variables.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/427875-insured-amount/#findComment-6911463
Share on other sites

Well I have a 93 R32 GTS-T coupe. Insured for $11,500 (most I could get it insured for)

I'm 21, lost my liscence once before and I'm paying $866 a year.

With JustCar Insurance.

Hope this gives you a rough outline.. :)

Edited by Zrobe
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/427875-insured-amount/#findComment-6911573
Share on other sites

On any car of great worth, I believe that it should be insured comprehensively, rather than at market value. A GT-R will be such a car.

On a car worth less than $10,000 but above $4,000, I might be tempted to insure it at market value - but maybe not.

If the car is worth less than $4,000 I might only pay for third party property insurance.

Sum Insured/Premium ratio depends on too many variables.

so comprehensive insurance would be insuring it at an agreed amount?

how much did u insure your car for Terry?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/427875-insured-amount/#findComment-6912227
Share on other sites

Agreed value can be a bit of a personal question for some, me included.

I could be wrong but the rarer and more valuable the car, the less likely people are to disclose.

Feel free to prove me wrong.

oh... ok

no worries then. was just checking out to see how "insured value" relates to "annual premium"

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/427875-insured-amount/#findComment-6913536
Share on other sites

Generally speaking the greater the agreed value, the higher premium.

In saying that, the bulk of the premium often relates to the type of car (GTR=high risk), age of driver and suburb its garaged. Suburbs can make a pretty big difference.

Insurers will also increase/decrease premiums based on their experience as well as the types of risk they want to insure.

Years ago nrma jacked up my premium on a 200sx from $2.5K to over $4K. No change at my end. I went in to talk to them and the lady said that instead of saying no they will sometimes increase premiums significantly for cars they don't wish to insure.

I went elsewhere.

Edited by Cherry Racer
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/427875-insured-amount/#findComment-6914175
Share on other sites

ok maybe i should rephrase...

if your car is rare and valuable, are u able to insure it accordingly to how much u paid for it...mods and all? or will the insurance company tell u how much its worth?

Heavily depends on the company offering the policy. The majority of mainstream companies will probably exclude highly modified cars, let alone insure them for an inflated sum.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/427875-insured-amount/#findComment-6915010
Share on other sites

Heavily depends on the company offering the policy. The majority of mainstream companies will probably exclude highly modified cars, let alone insure them for an inflated sum.

:/

think i came across a company that specializes in insuring jap imports, cant rem name though... anyone knows abt it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/427875-insured-amount/#findComment-6915071
Share on other sites

:/

think i came across a company that specializes in insuring jap imports, cant rem name though... anyone knows abt it?

A lot of the younger generation (myself included) tend to insure with just car insurance, if that's who you're thinking of.

Shannons and a few others I can't name off the top of my head offer decent insurance too (In terms of recognizing import, rare or collectable cars and modifications) but unless you're 25 years or older they won't cover you.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/427875-insured-amount/#findComment-6915329
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...