Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On any car of great worth, I believe that it should be insured comprehensively, rather than at market value. A GT-R will be such a car.

On a car worth less than $10,000 but above $4,000, I might be tempted to insure it at market value - but maybe not.

If the car is worth less than $4,000 I might only pay for third party property insurance.

Sum Insured/Premium ratio depends on too many variables.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/427875-insured-amount/#findComment-6911463
Share on other sites

Well I have a 93 R32 GTS-T coupe. Insured for $11,500 (most I could get it insured for)

I'm 21, lost my liscence once before and I'm paying $866 a year.

With JustCar Insurance.

Hope this gives you a rough outline.. :)

Edited by Zrobe
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/427875-insured-amount/#findComment-6911573
Share on other sites

On any car of great worth, I believe that it should be insured comprehensively, rather than at market value. A GT-R will be such a car.

On a car worth less than $10,000 but above $4,000, I might be tempted to insure it at market value - but maybe not.

If the car is worth less than $4,000 I might only pay for third party property insurance.

Sum Insured/Premium ratio depends on too many variables.

so comprehensive insurance would be insuring it at an agreed amount?

how much did u insure your car for Terry?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/427875-insured-amount/#findComment-6912227
Share on other sites

Agreed value can be a bit of a personal question for some, me included.

I could be wrong but the rarer and more valuable the car, the less likely people are to disclose.

Feel free to prove me wrong.

oh... ok

no worries then. was just checking out to see how "insured value" relates to "annual premium"

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/427875-insured-amount/#findComment-6913536
Share on other sites

Generally speaking the greater the agreed value, the higher premium.

In saying that, the bulk of the premium often relates to the type of car (GTR=high risk), age of driver and suburb its garaged. Suburbs can make a pretty big difference.

Insurers will also increase/decrease premiums based on their experience as well as the types of risk they want to insure.

Years ago nrma jacked up my premium on a 200sx from $2.5K to over $4K. No change at my end. I went in to talk to them and the lady said that instead of saying no they will sometimes increase premiums significantly for cars they don't wish to insure.

I went elsewhere.

Edited by Cherry Racer
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/427875-insured-amount/#findComment-6914175
Share on other sites

ok maybe i should rephrase...

if your car is rare and valuable, are u able to insure it accordingly to how much u paid for it...mods and all? or will the insurance company tell u how much its worth?

Heavily depends on the company offering the policy. The majority of mainstream companies will probably exclude highly modified cars, let alone insure them for an inflated sum.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/427875-insured-amount/#findComment-6915010
Share on other sites

Heavily depends on the company offering the policy. The majority of mainstream companies will probably exclude highly modified cars, let alone insure them for an inflated sum.

:/

think i came across a company that specializes in insuring jap imports, cant rem name though... anyone knows abt it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/427875-insured-amount/#findComment-6915071
Share on other sites

:/

think i came across a company that specializes in insuring jap imports, cant rem name though... anyone knows abt it?

A lot of the younger generation (myself included) tend to insure with just car insurance, if that's who you're thinking of.

Shannons and a few others I can't name off the top of my head offer decent insurance too (In terms of recognizing import, rare or collectable cars and modifications) but unless you're 25 years or older they won't cover you.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/427875-insured-amount/#findComment-6915329
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
×
×
  • Create New...