Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Does this look like its setup right?

the left hose is connected just after the compressor,

the Tee feeds 2lines to the tial 44mm which has both hoses on the bottom row of ports, should there be one on the top and one on bottom instead?

the hole with nothing in it is labelled "NO", and when doing a pressure test for vacumn leaks it was leaking massively, is that normal ?post-70965-0-11252900-1372838132_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/428010-quick-avcr-question/
Share on other sites

ok thanks for that link, ive studied that and its clear that its hooked up wrong, but im still trying to understand why when I hooked up compressed air to the system that the "NO" was leaking out air, this was with 0.3Bar with combined 14psi springs in the gate..

could the solenoid be stuck open or is definitely due to being plumbed up wrong?

I could be wrong, but have you tried testing it with reds "on" this would power up the AVCR and solenoid. My understanding is that the solenoid pulses lots of times to control boost. If you put some air into it while off, it may have stopped in an open position. I could be entirely wrong though! haha

thanks for the input guys, all good now, tuner setup it up for me today same as above link, the solenoid is actually meant to vent air off if running spring pressure and when adding more boost it uses that air to push on the spring to adjust boost higher than spring pressure. if that makes sense. :whistling:

Edited by AngryRB
  • 2 weeks later...

thanks for the input guys, all good now, tuner setup it up for me today same as above link, the solenoid is actually meant to vent air off if running spring pressure and when adding more boost it uses that air to push on the spring to adjust boost higher than spring pressure. if that makes sense. :whistling:

Mate could you possibly update or pm me with how you have the avcr set up with the gate or a sketch so I can make sure mine is done properly when going back on Dyno in a few weeks?

Had to cut last Dyno short as I didn't have it hooked up right damn it.lol

I have a gtt as well

no probs, see in the pic on my first post

the hose on the left goes to the top row of ports on the tial

the 2 hoses on the right of the solenoid - one is plumbed just after the turbo compressor, cold side

the other plumbs into the bottom row of ports

all other ports are plugged, the solenoid works by bleeding off air until you want more boost than the spring pressure , in that situation it forces are to the top port to help the spring keep the gate closed.

which is what the diagram in the manual in the above link shows ...

hope that helps

Edited by AngryRB

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
    • That still isn't a lot to go on. I don't have a Y50 Fuga Head Unit wiring diagram. I can say that a lot of nissans of that age shared head unit plugs, so if you are in Australia something like this would probably help: https://aerpro.com/app091# You plug that into the car loom, then either plug the head unit ISO into that (if it has ISO), or you buy and ISO adapter harness that you wire in. Bit of stuffing around, but once you have ISO its easy to change things in future.
    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
×
×
  • Create New...