Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Gts-T Limitations Vs Gtr

VeYzZii
 Share

Recommended Posts

VeYzZii Apprentice

VeYzZii

Posted
Posted

Hey all. I've never posted on SAU, mainly because I have never owned a Skyline.. I am however looking at buying a R32 Gtst, or possibly GTR. So i have been planning taking ownership in a GTR for years now, and now that i am able to I have had second thoughts of buying one. I plan on only having one car, so it will need to be a daily. And going through threads here it seems that most of you advise it would not be ideal for daily driving. So now I have been looking into Gtst, and a possible RB25DET Neo swap. The threads on SAU helped heaps, but im here for opinions on the idea. Do you think its better to pay 15-25k for a GTR, or build an RB25 R32 Gtst? (Gtst 5k + rb25det neo/box/ecu 4k + Labour ?)

Sorry if I have posted in the wrong section.

Vee.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/428169-r32-gts-t-limitations-vs-gtr/
Share on other sites
niZmO_Man Grand Master

niZmO_Man

Posted
Posted

After owning both and daily driving them, I would say the GTS-t is a better daily. Don't discount the RB20DET so much, they are a great engine. I slapped a NEO6 turbo on mine and easily returned 10L/100km or less if I stopped boosting it so much. Car was completely stock (engine, exhaust, suspension/wheels). Very easy to live with, and even had a factory sunroof! (Type M).

GT-R, a lot more expensive to run (12+L/100km with very easy driving), parts are more expensive, it's heavier and there's more things that will go wrong (ATTESA, HICAS) mainly because all of them will be thrashed.

BUT, and this is a big one, the way the GT-R drives is on a completely different level. The GTS-t feels tail happy, but is easier to drive (lighter, smaller turning circle). You can have a quick squirt through some hills/corners without much effort and it will be fun. GT-R feels like a restrained animal. The turbos comes on hard, feels heavier, as if more effort is required to drive it. But once you're on boost and ready to move, GT-R will decimate a lot of cars and quite easily yourself. You really have to take it to track days to fully open it up, it's just far too dangerous on the streets.

If you aren't driving much everyday and have the cash to spend when required, get the GT-R. If you do a fair bit of driving, get a GTS-t with as few mods as possible. Don't get me wrong, a near stock GT-R is very reliable, same with a GTS-t. Vehicle's history obviously plays a big part.

XGTRX Veteran

XGTRX

Posted
Posted

Depends what you are really going to be happy with, what you want in a car, how you want to drive it etc. Go for a drive in both and see. At the end of the day if you are going to go down the mod path then you need to work out what platform you want to start with. However if you decide on a gtr have $10k extra ready just in case.

VeYzZii Apprentice

VeYzZii

Posted
  • Author
Posted

whilst i reckon owning a 32 gtr would be great ive noticed that any skyline with the letters GTR on it seems to cost double to repair/replace

so its a cheap as gtst for me

That is true, reading through some threads on SAU and it seems ridiculous!

After owning both and daily driving them, I would say the GTS-t is a better daily. Don't discount the RB20DET so much, they are a great engine. I slapped a NEO6 turbo on mine and easily returned 10L/100km or less if I stopped boosting it so much. Car was completely stock (engine, exhaust, suspension/wheels). Very easy to live with, and even had a factory sunroof! (Type M).

GT-R, a lot more expensive to run (12+L/100km with very easy driving), parts are more expensive, it's heavier and there's more things that will go wrong (ATTESA, HICAS) mainly because all of them will be thrashed.

BUT, and this is a big one, the way the GT-R drives is on a completely different level. The GTS-t feels tail happy, but is easier to drive (lighter, smaller turning circle). You can have a quick squirt through some hills/corners without much effort and it will be fun. GT-R feels like a restrained animal. The turbos comes on hard, feels heavier, as if more effort is required to drive it. But once you're on boost and ready to move, GT-R will decimate a lot of cars and quite easily yourself. You really have to take it to track days to fully open it up, it's just far too dangerous on the streets.

If you aren't driving much everyday and have the cash to spend when required, get the GT-R. If you do a fair bit of driving, get a GTS-t with as few mods as possible. Don't get me wrong, a near stock GT-R is very reliable, same with a GTS-t. Vehicle's history obviously plays a big part.

Hey mate, thanks for the detailed reply. i will be driving frequently, hence decided to go with a GTS-T. It would be unfair to get a GTR and hardly use it for 'GTR like things' and just stack up kilometers on it.

Depends what you are really going to be happy with, what you want in a car, how you want to drive it etc. Go for a drive in both and see. At the end of the day if you are going to go down the mod path then you need to work out what platform you want to start with. However if you decide on a gtr have $10k extra ready just in case.

Thanks for the advice! It sounded ridiculous to me at the start, but its slowly sinking in (the 10k in the corner idea). LOL

niZmO_Man Grand Master

niZmO_Man

Posted
Posted

I've been dailying my GT-R for almost two years. Used to drive 1,000km/wk at times. Expensive to run, but ballin' ain't cheap lol (my "daily" R31 was broken). It's not that hard to live with, my car has a heavy clutch, but it's pretty easy to drive in traffic. Just have to keep your boosting urges under control and you should see 12L/100km (assuming it's a good condition stocker). Highly modified ones are a different story I would imagine. Sydney roads are super shithouse so a car with low profile tyres and/or stiffer suspension will rattle you/itself to pieces.

But yeah, GTS-t is a far better option, especially if it came with factory sunroof! :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Watermouse
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By Watermouse · Posted

      https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • Kinkstaah
      Airbox for +T

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • GTSBoy
      Airbox for +T

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • BuiltNotBought
      Airbox for +T

      By BuiltNotBought · Posted

      There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • BuiltNotBought
      Airbox for +T

      By BuiltNotBought · Posted

      I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
×
×
  • Create New...