Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a weird ticking/knocking noise that has developed in my car, but only occurs for a few seconds after heavy acceleration and high RPM. it then disappears.

Only noticed this the other day when accelerating hard in 2nd gear to 100km/h. it hit the rev limiter, after that I shifted straight to 5th and then to 6th, but then had a metallic sounding ticking sound under light acceleration, it did not occur when decellerating. Everything performed normal, no loss of power, no vibrations or roughness, just the noise.

After about 10 seconds, the noise stopped completly.

The only way I could get it to occur again was to do another hard acceleration into high RPM.

My initial thoughts were an exhaust manifold gasket, as the sound seemed to be about regular enough for a leak on just one cylinder, and changed with engine RPM (not vehicle speed).

I have driven about 50km since then (city driving) and haven't had any other issues at all.

I took it for another hard drive yesterday afternoon to have another listen to the noise and managed to get it to occur once, even with several attempts. But I am thinking the noise isn't quite metallic enough for an exhaust leak, and am now starting to wonder if it is a clutch/DMF problem. as I couldn't really hear the sound from outside the car (driving next to a concrete barrier).

I have been a bit sus of my clutch since I purchased the car, the 'take up' point seems to change at times, and if the clutch gets hot, the pedal doesn't return all the way up. I have also noticed if I press lightly on the clutch pedal while accelerating, I can feel and hear a vibration/knocking sound, this occurs all the time, and has done this since I have had the car.

Just after any thoughts/ideas..

I know that my clutch is quite 'rumbly' when not engaged e.g. car idling in the drive-way in neutral. I suspect a worn thrust bearing. Perhaps you have something like that?

Just an idea which I'd throw out there, seeing as though you've come up against some clutch niggles.

It seems to be coming from behind the driver side footwell area.

I've never had a collapsed cat, but I would assume that would be more of a random rattling noise, this sound is much more regular and in time with engine RPM?

Clutch probably does need a flush with new fluid. It is the one fluid I haven't changed since purchasing the car.

Thanks.

It's hard to tell without hearing a video of it. Even still it could be a few things. I'd start with checking the exhaust heat shield - that's caused the acceleration rattle for me in the past. You can just cut that off. It's also worth checking your oil levels though as that can happen when you're getting the common oil burning issue, which also contributed to a 'marbles in can' rattle on my old engine.

Thanks. Oil level is fine. I think the noise was a bit different to heat shield. Also couldn't really hear it from outside the car ( driving next to a concrete barrier). And it was a fairly repetitive/regular noise that changed with engine rpm.

I took it for a bit of a drive again today and couldn't get it to happen again.

Still a bit perplexed with it. Will try to Capture a video if it occurs again.

  • 7 months later...

After all this time, this noise has started again, however, it now seems to happen under light throttle once the engine is fully warmed up, and only occasionally.

I have found if I put some pressure on the clutch pedal (not enough to disengage it), the noise stops, so I think that is a fairly reasonable indicator that it is a clutch problem.

The other weird thing is it seems to be louder if I am making a hard right turn while accelerating, which made me think 'engine mounts' for a while, but they appear all ok.

Looking around now for a replacement DMF and clutch. I don't want to go with a single mass fly as this is my daily and I spend a lot of time under 2k RPM, and many with SMF say that it is quite noisy under 2K.

I don't think it is the timing chain. It only occurs intermittently and only when accelerating. I also wouldn't expect timing chain noise to go away when I put pressure on the clutch pedal.

It is also silent at idle, where timing chain noise is usually most noticeable.

Thanks.

Looks like just under $1k for a LuK DMF (OEM) and an exedy clutch kit (clutch plate, pressure plate and throwout bearing). I should be able to do the work myself, which should save quite a bit in labour. And a good excuse to buy myself a transmission jack. :)

Does anyone know if it is worth doing the rear main seal on the engine or the transmission input seals while the transmission is out? or do these not give much trouble?

If you do the rear main without dropping the sump you will find out the hard way, it's not a good idea... Then once the job is done and you have a weeping seal, you will need to rip the engine out and gearbox off again to fix it properly.

As always, don't change what isn't stuffed.

  • 2 weeks later...

Well, I have placed an order for a new LuK DMF and Exedy clutch kit. Should be here in a couple of weeks, then I will have to arrange a time to fit it. Will post the results back here.

  • 1 month later...

Well, fitted a new LuK DMF and Exedy clutch kit today, seems a bit easier to control now, the clutch isn't as 'bitey' as the old one. But I really haven't taken it for a long drive yet. The existing clutch seemed to be factory, as all components had LuK and NISSAN written on them. There was still plenty of 'meat' left on the clutch plate, but the DMF seemed to have a bit of play. There was also a few 'shiny' spots on both the flywheel and pressure plate, but didn't have any signs of chatter, not sure what the shiny spots mean??

The Exedy clutch feels a bit heavier than the factory clutch and makes the clutch pedal feel a bit 'spungy'. I am thinking a braded clutch line may help with that?

Does anyone know if there is a difference between the LHD and RHD braded clutch lines?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...