Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

I am looking at buying a turbo off of a forum member, I will keep the identity between him and I as I believe that is the proper thing to do.

I have put a deposit down on it but I am curious.

The owner states it is an R33 turbo which has been high flowed but the rear wheel has not been changed to a steel one. So I am curious as to whether there are different "stages" of high flowing for lack of a better word.

The turbo in question was high flowed by a previous owner, so the current has limited knowledge as to its modifications. But we do know for certain that the front housing has been machined out.

Is it possible that only the front of the turbo, so the compressor wheel and housing were upgraded? And if so, is this still considered a "high flowed" item?

I have faith in the seller and I am not trying to deny his knowledge, nor am I denying his legitimacy, as I said, I have already put some money down on the turbo, I just want to know exactly what has been done to it is all.

I found this information on the Garrett page

"What is High Flowing? High flowing a turbocharger involves fitting a larger compressor, or turbine wheel to a turbocharger to improve its physical flow capabilities. Take a VL Commodore turbo for instance, this will be stripped, cleaned, reconditioned, and at the same time, fitted with a compressor wheel that has a larger inducer, and exducer measurement. The fitment of the larger compressor wheel also means that the compressor housing will require machining to fit the larger wheel. As this wheel is now larger than factory, this would be classified as a "high flow" turbocharger, as the compressor wheel is "higher flowing" than the standard item. All of this process is done in house at GCG Turbochargers. High Flowing usually adds 1-2 days turnaround on top of a standard repair."

In this quote it says that they fit a larger compressor wheel, or turbine wheel. Does this mean that only the compressor"front" wheel is changed, and not the rear?

Kind Regards,

Michael

Edited by poeticjustice88
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429029-different-highflow-characteristics/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...