Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have my local speed shop pricing one for me.

I'll get a price for x lots if people are interested. I have used a B&M shifter that claimed 25% on a WRX and it was amazing. Can't wait till I get mine.

Adrian

Adrian - B&M claim they work on all skyline - but the part # is the same for all models - ie R32, R33, R34 - GTS-t, GTR -

and I was of the understanding that shifters were different between skyline models.

Hence - my confusion if they will work on a GTS-t or not

Ohhh I wonder if that will let me shift quicker! Looks pretty good as they replace the base plate as well with a machined part... and the shifters are pretty much interchangable between skyline boxes.

No mo' granny shifts~!

mate a granny shift is like shifting at 3 grand (ie. not redlining it).

you obviously have a different idea about what granny shifting is to the rest of the world, mate.

Chris, you got nothing... I'm afraid you're a lost cause till you can do a burnout... :rant::):rant:

Adrian

Chris, you got nothing...  I'm afraid you're a lost cause till you can do a burnout...  :rant::):rant:

Adrian

Skylines cant do burnouts, the whole world knows this, to do a proper burnout you need a beige Corona, :)

Has anyone tried a short shifter, B & M or other, only to find that the condition of the gearbox means that shifting is actually harder, i drove a 200SX that shifted like a pig with a Cs shifter, apparently the health of the box needs to be pretty good to runa shorter shifter...any truth?

yep - shorter shift is suppost to put increased load on the gearbox and syncros (spelling ?)

But this is a generic statement - it really depends on how well (or bad !) you treat the gearbox, the condition of the box, regular servicing and (as 2rismo said) how good a lube you wanna use (mechanically speaking !!)

my gearbox whines visciously and drops a lot of oil.... does that mean i gotta keep using the stock shifter.

And also anyone using an rb20 box in a vl get a different shifter, i still have the rb20 one and i had to turn it around as the shifter hits the handbrake in 2nd gear. Turned around it has a HUGE throw in to 1,3,5 and a minute one in to 2,4,R ... dodgy !

Evan

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...