Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok, so after buying my 32 gtst the clutch was for for about a month of very little driving.

Recently I lost pedal feel, it will only come halfway back up, and wont fully disengage when the pedal is at the floor.

It has a new master cylinder and I have replaced the slave 3 times now.. all end up leaking. The last one started leaking and scored the bore of the slave and metal shaving were coming out.

The dampener has also been removed previously.

It has a 5 Puk Ceramic button clutch.. I dont know if that has anything to do with the slaves dying (they last around 10 minutes of driving).

Any suggestions would be great..

Edited by teteous
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429411-r32-slave-cylinder-failure/
Share on other sites

Standard clutch line? May have a leak in the hose somewhere?

Yeah, it has the metal line from the master down to the standard rubber line straight onto the slave.

There is no visible leaks on the line at all, bled both master and slave to where it will feel good, then just deteriorates the more you drive to the point where you are just slamming into gear (whilst rev matching).

The slaves end up pushing out black black grease, and when I remove the reservoir cap it seems to have a vacuum seal and bubbles will come up (even though it had been thoroughly bled, even with a vacuum bleeder).

Edited by teteous

Check the obvious things, snapped throw out lever, broken pedal etc.

So many slave cylinders is just crazy.

I checked the pedal when checking for master cylinder leaks on the inside of the firewall, no leaks there and the pedal seemed fine..

Any way of checking the throw out lever visually?

The pivot ball is not bent and looks fine.

Remove the rubber dust boot and have a look in there with a torch.

The fact that the pedal is staying down suggests the throw out lever isn't returning fully.

The Skyline clutch pedal return spring goes over centre which actually helps the pedal to go down.

Without full return from the slave, throw-out lever etc the pedal won't come back up.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's not a great deal to report here .... except ...... FOR .... LSD!!!  I bought a Quaife LSD from the UK and shipped it here .... Wish I'd just bought locally cause the shipping and duty was $700! But there were so many diffs used in the E90s I just wanted to be absolutely certain I was getting the right one so I spoke with a supplier in the UK who builds race cars and they have heaps of experience with the E90s.  I pulled the diff out which was seriously awesome - I've never done anything like that before, I must have watched 1000 videos on YT about it as well as consulting the Bentley manual. It was super easy in the end. The diff was delivered to the awesome folks at Hornsby Diffs and will be back in a few weeks. I also replaced the diff bushings with some Nolathane ones.  Really looking forward to getting it back and getting back to the track or even the skidpan.
    • yeah... the 13kg/mm springs weren't always in there, I had 10kg/mm but doing a few SMSP commanded heavier front springs. It's so good now going into T1 and T2, just need more seat time and real tyres.
    • Yes, well. Mine are less than half that. ARBs are not set to "dumb" either.
    • I would hope. But, we all know even the best companies have an issue sporadically.
    • LOL well, lucky mine doesn't have some R shit on it. Around town, it handles so much better than the R33, R33 in the wet is pretty dangerous to the untrained hoon, especially with 13kg/mm front springs.
×
×
  • Create New...