Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey ya'll, I've got a series 2 R33 Skyline Gts-t here in Sydney for wrecking. The car was running great with approx 168,00km on the clock, and only had some light suspension arm damage/guttered wheels at the rear, and some faded paint on the roof

Send me a PM or reply here if you're after anything here or any other random small parts. I'm located in Sydney for pickup or I can send most parts anywhere in Aus

Few more pics will be up during the week !

It had a few after market parts:

RPM / PBR Cushioned button clutch, pressure plate & recently machined flywheel, great condition, lots of meat left - $300

3" Kakimoto stainless steel catback exhaust, sensational condition - $300 pickup only

Front castor rods with near new urethane bushes installed - $50/pair

Blitz Dual SBC Spec-S, includes solenoid, all wiring looms - $350 ono

Return flow FMIC & piping kit for R33 Skyline Gts-t - painted black.

Pretty good condition, but the lower return pipe & end tank has some scrapes on the under side - $250 pickup only

Turbosmart boost gauge & Greddy a-pillar mount, Sensational condition - $100 ono

Walbro GSS-342 500HP fuel pump & R33 Skyline cradle, ready to drop in - $100

2x (pair) Avantek 18x8" wheels & tyres. Wheels are in sensational condition, basically no scrapes/damage at all - $250

One of the tyres is as new has about ~90% read, the other one has some camber wear and is probably not roadworthy

Pedders lowered springs & Pedders comfort gas shocks all round. Great condition - $400 for the full set

Adjustable front castor rods - $75

HKS pod filter & 3" AFM adapter - $40

Blitz turbo timer & wiring loom - $30

-----------

5 speed manual rb25det gearbox - SOLD to a mate

Rb25DET engine - ran perfectly while in the car & had great compression - approx 155 psi on all 6 cylinders - $1000

Will be sold as a long motor - no turbocharger, loom, coilpacks or accesories (alt, p/s, a/c pump) but everything else is there

Exterior Stuff:

s2 front bar & foglights/indicators, has been cut for FMIC - $300 pickup only

s2 front grille - $60

s2 front reo bar - $120

s2 bonnet - $250

Front guards - $75 each

Bare nose cut/radiator support - $150

Side mirrors - $40 each

Tail lights - $40 each

Standard sideskirts & matching rear pods - small crack/hole in one side - $120 - pickup only

Engine / Engine bay stuff:

Aircon condenser - $100

R33 radiator & shroud - $100

R33 aircon compressor pump - $100

R33 power steering pump - $100

R33 alternator - $90

A/c condenser/thermo fan - $60

engine clutch fan - $60

S2 afm (pink sticker) - $70

standard BOV & crossover pipe - $50

Engine Mounts - $60/pair

Fuse box lid - $20

Radiator overflow bottle - $20

Washer bottle & motors - $20

Brakes/driveline:

Front calipers, painted silver. Includes all pins/clips - $250

Rear calipers, painted silver. Includes all pins/clips - $120

Front rotors, used but good condition - $50/pair

Rear rotors, used but good condition - $50/pair

Front lower control arms - $50 ea

Front upper control arms - $50/pr

Front 5 stud hubs - $50 each

Rear lower control arms - $40 each

Rear 5 stud hubs - $120 pair

Handbrake drum assembly incl cables - $120 pair

Rear differential (4.1) manual diff - $175

Driveshafts $75 pair

Spare space saver wheel - $50

Interior:

S2 steering wheel & airbag - Great condition, little/no wear - $150

Driver's side power window switch (12 pin) - $75

Driver's side power window switch surround plastic (s2) - $60

Passenger side window motor - $50

Drivers side window motor - $100

Instrument cluster, approx 168,000km, all gauges working well - $100

Instrument cluster dash surround (s2) - $80

Gear stick surround (s2) - $50

Centre console, with good lid/latch - $50

Seatbelts (full set) - $75

Ignition barrel + door barrels & key - $90

on your kakimoto catback, on the pipes (not the cannon) is there a small rectangular plate with something like a product ID, perhaps starting with N----------- ???

PMs replied. Engine loom, p/s pump, front seats sold, Exhaust sold pending payment.

The adjustable castor rods are Tein, pictured below

Few more photos:

Pedders suspension:

post-35556-0-10302700-1376210837_thumb.jpg

Tein adjustable castor rods:

post-35556-0-91237700-1376210844_thumb.jpg

Sideskirts/pods

post-35556-0-32085200-1376210867_thumb.jpg

Hey mate.

How much for the boost gauge or cup without gauge and cigarette lighter socket?

What suburb is pickup? I might be interested in boot lining stuff if you have it in great condition too.

Cheers

-Steve

Hey mate.

How much for the boost gauge or cup without gauge and cigarette lighter socket?

What suburb is pickup? I might be interested in boot lining stuff if you have it in great condition too.

Cheers

-Steve

PM sent & replied !

Hey can I see some pics of rotors on 0401957814?? Front and rear?

No worries, i'll message you a pic on thursday

Hi do you have red stop light for rear spoiler? if so how much? thanks Dennis 0403922737

Yes i've got one - $25? PM me if you're keen

Do you still have the front seats?

Sorry mate i'm hanging onto them

Can u post up what's been sold ?

Most of the front end- bonnet, front bar, headlights, reo bar, engine wiring loom, front LCAs, gearbox, tailshaft, front/rear seats, door trims, PBR clutch, 3" kakimito exhaust, dash surround, power steering pump - SOLD

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...