Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Okay what else should I change?

- Oil

- Oil Filter

- Check Brake pads

- Check Brake fluid.

I heard that you should do a service before and after a track day.

Is this true.. I guess it's just better for the engine...? 8O

I'm just trying to prep myself up before track day because i don't find

that i should have changed/replace something half way through the

day... :cry:

Better to be safe then sorry as they would say.

  • Replies 112
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

If your oil is over 5,000km change it before the day, but i think its more important to be changed after, you can talk to everyone and they will all tell you a different story, shit if you had the money do it every time after you have driven the car hard.

But really its up to you.

On the day you must be able to stop. Do your fluid with the best you can buy and make sure there is at least 1/2 the pads on your front, then check after and see how much you used, this way you will know if you have enough for next one. May sure you do at least 200 - 500km to bed in your new brakes or there is a chance you could glaze them and they will be rubish on and after the day

Jimbo,

Yes standard driving with light braking, using a set-up and squeeze gently method. This is what my race driver mechanic tells me to do. Once they are bedded in (First 50Km) then you can start to do some harder braking, just dont smash the pedal to the floor within the first 200 and go hard after 500km. This obviously applies to street metal pads that are hard to medium. Race brakes are a different story, get them to temp and go hard, then throw them away and the rotors as well, but unfortunately not everyone can afford that. General use soft pads only need about 50km because they bed in a lot quicker.

Hi all,

I'm new too all this, so I have a few questions.

I am really keen to come but looks like there will be some hardcore cars on the track. I only have a lowly modfied Excel but keen to give it a run on a track. Be interesting to see if all the suspension work done makes a difference on a track. Do you think my car is too slow to be around all these Skylines and Rexs?

I only work in Blacktown and can take half the day off if needed. So what do I need in order to be prepared for the track? Where do you get the helmet and race suit from? Can you hire it?

Awaiting your reply

Rob[/quote:ef3ac959f2]

Hi XLBoy,

Get out there for sure, especially if you've done some suspension mods you may be pleasantly surprised - I've lapped Eastern Creek in 2.06 in a Daewoo Lanos!

There are slow/medium/fast groups, I'm sure you won't have any troubles with the others.

You'll need a helmet and long clothing. As long as your brakes & tyres are OK, that's all.

Of course, if you own the car that was written off last weekend, you can ignore the above :)

See you there,

Duncan.

Oz,

thank man, reason i asked is cause i work night shift and scammed the night off for the track day, i'll have no hope of getting a wednesday night off in the near future...

oh well. :)

Guest XLboy

:lol: :lol: :lol:

So just confirming. Am I counted as being in? Maybe a final list needs to be done next Tuesday so everyone is committed to coming. Just give you my details in case there are any changes.

ph: 0404099874 (voda) or 0411663349 (optus)

email: [email protected] (work)

Thanks for being kind to the XL. I get alot of crap from other clubs and people. It'll be my first time on a track but my bro has taken his XL on Wakefield with the MX5 club. Not that the XL is a bad car but I am hoping to upgrade in 2 years time. Came pretty close to buying a R33 GTS-t for $20K 2 years ago and Liberty turbo 6 months ago but the deals didn't go through. Planning to get a Rexy... you know a family car :) I took my car on the great ocean road (vic) and it handled really well, wonder how that will translate to the track. Anyway, enough yakkin'.

So where do you get helmets from? Are they the same as motorbike ones?

Anyway, will see ya all there if I am down on the list. I will be coming from Blacktown Westpoint SC. How long should I allow to get to Eastern Creek?

PS. No, that was not my XL that crashed at the charity cruise. But I do know Jason. Bit of a bummer. Oh well, he can upgrade his car now... it was only a standard single cam with alloys and sunroof.

Rob

Cool, I just like to see pics to try and visualise what occurred, and as a lesson of what not to do. Before you all get the idea that I'm a saddist or something.

Also reviewing the damage of specific vehicles in incidents.[/quote:e6f2534c1b]

i can teach you a bit. i've been in a few accidents one of which was my fault and another where i wrote off a magna.

wanna avoid them- simple, don't drive. there's always idiots like myself and urmine out on the roads. :mrgreen: untill ppl learn their limits there will always be a high number of accidents

XLboy,

At the moment I have to say no to having a spot, I have your number and I will call you if a spot pops up. When it get closer, say Wed.’s morning, I will call moto and check if I can have more then my allocated 25 spots, at the moment we are 28 but let see what they say.

Sorry, but I will call you when I have a 100% decision.

there's always idiots like myself and urmine out on the roads. :mrgreen: untill ppl learn their limits there will always be a high number of accidents[/quote:1cbd55c1b4]

hey bitch :)... i know my limits!!.. i know the limits of my car very well!.. and im always usually on the carefull side and always stay that 1% under the max of my car!!!..

thats why im going to this track day.. i want to make that limit a bit further away!! and i will know even better were the limit is!! hmm me thinking im gonna spend more time on grass than track!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...