Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If I'm doing a static burnout, the accelerometer shouldn't recognise any g forces apart from some slight vibration...

If I'm rolling along at 60 on a rough road, it'll also not detect any g forces apart from slight vibrations...

Unless I'm missing something, Accelerometers can't detect speed, so how would it know if its doing a burnout?

If I'm doing a static burnout, the accelerometer shouldn't recognise any g forces apart from some slight vibration...

If I'm rolling along at 60 on a rough road, it'll also not detect any g forces apart from slight vibrations...

Unless I'm missing something, Accelerometers can't detect speed, so how would it know if its doing a burnout?

Sorry, thought we were talking about going off road. Yes, detecting a burnout is a current issue I'm having. To an extent, accelerometers can detect speed. Acceleration (Gs or m/s^2) over time (seconds) will give you speed (m/s off the top of my head). When I do testing I'll have to see what the reading differences are like between say a burnout, and simply revving the motor. But since the accelerometer can detect acceleration and deceleration you can see if the car is static.

So, knowing that, we can possibly recognize if someone is doing a burnout. We take into consideration whether the car is static (making sure that acceleration and deceleration are equivalent - hence the car is stationary.) and if the car is static and there's a large amount of vibrations, it is possible that you're doing a burnout. Again, need to compare revving the engine to a burnout and see how clear the difference is between them.

yeah Accelerometers are accurate over very short periods of time, but not for car movement, even with a good quality high resolution 3-axis one. Too many variables... bumps, hills, etc...Even the most amazingly complex math in the world can't overcome that without additional assistance from a quality GPS signal or an ECU speed input...

ECU is just not feasible, end of story. I can't do anything about that, I'd love to use it, trust me, but I can't. GPS will be there.

Do you perhaps have ideas for other sensors?

Again, it would be awesome to tap into the ECU, but there's no way I can create comms systems for every bloody model out there.

Mandatory penalties are bullshit.

Murderers still get their day in court and judges are able to apply discretion, yet a victimless crime gets a set punishment regardless of degree.

People busted speeding should receive a penalty appropriate to the "crime"".

Edited by Cowboy1600

Mandatory penalties are bullshit.

Murderers still get their day in court and judges are able to apply discretion, yet a victimless crime gets a set punishment regardless of degree.

People busted speeding should receive a penalty appropriate to the "crime"".

If I could delete your post I would. This isn't a discussion concerning whether we believe in the types of punishments currently in place, so I'd ask you to refrain from trying to create such an argument.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here is a recipe. Sonic blocks till you get one that has a good enough bore. Get a torque plate and block brace, use your choice of fasteners (arp ect) bolt the thing together empty, half fill it and let it cure. Release it when it has, go to a REPUTABLE RB Builder and get the thing line bored/honed and cylinder honed to size, then wash. Once its all clean and dandy, wash and blow it out again. Then again.  Assemble said engine to your desired clearances with oil control mods, gasket to suit desired CR/Squish ect. Attach your extended sump with proper trap door oil baffles and head drain plumbed to sump with a SUMP BREATHER SYSTEM. Build your front diff with a decent LSD, rebuild your transfer case with a few extra plates, more than likely replace your tailshaft centre bearing and tighten up the rear diff. Tune to minimise excessive midrange cylinder pressure (timing unless you like to split bores and rebuild engines) Enjoy your engine, but hate the fact you are now destroying engine mounts, gearboxes, gearbox mounts, diff output flanges and driveshafts, diff mounts, tailshafts and front CV's.   Disclaimer.... Ive never done any of the aforementioned stuff.......
    • 440s will support well over 400HP on petrol, which is a decent place to be for an RB20. 230+rwkW. Will be a safer bet for idle/low load. 550s would be nice for the extra headroom. I've made the same decision with mine (Neo25). 1000s are probably too big for the Nistuned ECU, so I have some smaller ones.
    • Appreciate everything guys. I did go ahead and get an alignment... most of my complains are solved. Car is not perfect, but it's good enough. If I notice uneven tire wear or anything I'll just take everything back to stock.  Thanks again!
    • They still have not shipped the 550cc injectors as they weren't in stock, so in theory I could ask to get the 440cc ones instead, if those work better in my scenario. They're the same price so really shouldn't be an issue. Unfortunately I am not so knowledgeable in most parts of tuning so I wasn't sure what's best to choose between the two. 440cc ones are the lowest they have (not in stock, but available to buy nonetheless).
×
×
  • Create New...