Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This 'jet pump' is only ever used/enabled if and when you put Jet Fuel (Jet A-1) in your Skyline...

There is a reason why the taillights look like afterburners you know ;)

Nah in all seriousness I would like to know too!

  • Like 1

If the jet pump in a Skyline is anything like the jet pump in a WRX fuel tank, then it is used as a venturi effect pump to transfer fuel from the other side of the hump in the bottom of the fuel tank. It works by using the return line pressure to create a lower pressure in the suction pipe, this draws the fuel out of the otherside of the tank and deposits into the side where the fuel pump pick up is. These units are used for a number of reasons in that they are cheap, self priming, very low maintenance and also very cheap. The problems that can occur with them are when you use larger injectors and greater IDC's, there may not be enough pressure and volume in the return line to the tank to drive the pump.

Diagram.jpg

If you imagine that the compressed air is the return line and the vacuum is the line from the other side of the tank, then this give a visual idea of what is happening.

If you only have a lift pump on one side of the tank (due to the that being siting over the propshaft, there is a hump in the bottom of it) and the jet pump is not working, then you have to rely on the movement of the car to transfer fuel from one side of the tank to the other, so if you are going around a corner and this causes the fuel to move to the other side of the tank to where the lift pump is then it is possible to either not be able to get the full amount of fuel out of the tank, and dependent on the size of your surge tank, the pumps used and the engines fuel consumption, then it could also be drained.

Outlined in Red, is this the jet pump?
attachicon.gifis this a Jet Pump.JPG
Is it supposed to have a hose attached?
(if so, all I had in my tank was what's in the pic.)

If that is the in tank side, then no, they usually just spray into the tank from the nozzle to remove any possibility of flow restriction, the two moldings into it are the return from the fuel rail (center) and lift pipe (outside edge)

So if I have a lift pump, surge tank and external pump. I shouldn't need it, should I?

Because the external pump performs a similar function.

Correct. Just ditch it.

The Stagea's run these vac generators to suck the fuel over from the other side of the tank too. I didn't think it would be required in a 33 as they run a single tank behind the back seat don't they?

So these can just be ditched? It won't create problems with fuel getting stuck on one side of the tank? I also need to replace the moulded fittings with AN fittings, but I drive around pretty sedately on the streets, so I don't think I'd be doing much cornering hard enough to swish the fuel around...

Ah, just re-read Scotty's post.

So in an R34 with just a single internal fuel pump, I can't ditch this jet pump? What are my options for using AN fittings in place of the moulded ones?

This is my plan:

post-59520-0-18904500-1377426993_thumb.jpg

I think I made a few slight changes since making the jpg, but that's the crux of it.

I plan on making a full DIY write up. From what I can tell there isn't one out there (hence threads like this)

I understand the majority of the plan, but still not quite sure what you are doing with the fuel lid. Are you just using the one AN bulkhead fitting and keeping the plastic return fitting? This is what I think I am gonna have to do, though I'd prefer not to...

I have also thought about using a Speedflow tube adapter to convert the plastic fitting to an AN fitting. This would maintain the jet pump setup, AND allow me to run PTFE hose. The only thing is, the plastic fitting is an odd design and might not work with the tube adapter.

The 040 and 044 pumps are not E compatible according to Bosch, having said that, there are a large number of cars that run them (mine included) that do not seem to have an issue.

A solution to this could be two separate lift pumps (such as these http://www.efihardware.com/products/261/lift-pump-340hp-Rollercell) drawing from each side of the tank using the pickup for the lift pump as well as the standard pickup.

I'm sure they say that because E85 kills a lot of pumps due to the crud it stirs up.

Pump comes back. Pump comes back. Pump comes back. Then the quality manager for Bosch goes "put on the package we don't warrant returns for E86 anymore".

This is overkill for a lift pump to a surge tank. But it's probably the best in tank pump for E85:

http://www.sonicperformance.com.au/F90000267/Walbro-Fuel-pump-Intank-E85-450lph/pd.php

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Fark what are the changes of that snapping like that, clean. Nek minnit, custom radiator goes in, with built in oil cooler like those discontinued PWR ones from yesterdeacades ago
    • I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
×
×
  • Create New...