Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, just thought I should update you, I have been knuckling down and redoing most of my car since joining you guys, we have carried out...

Gearbox freshen up, new button clutch, lightened flywheel, rebuilt and shimmed diff, 2 new tyres, new bushes, alot of cleaning, neatening up of things like bumper mounts, wiring, plumbing etc... Engine out - good degrease of all the bay and tunnel, new hoses, engine mounts, rack ends, tie rod ends, trunion bearings, nolathane bush kit from front to back of it, water pump, gates racing timing belt kit, crank seals, cam seals, high flow thermostat, fuel filter, iridium plugs, the usual fun bits like a couple stickers got slapped on, new turbosmart blow off valve purchased and fitted because it was just dosing and I hope to keep it alive the best we can so I figured it was cheap insurance, then continued on maintenanced based things like oil, filter, coolant etc which made it in to the mix after we stripped the engine for its freshen up - CP forgies, cometic head gasket, fully balanced, honed 40thou o/s, decked block, shaved head, polished valves, full nissan genuine gasket kit half manifold gasket and all, race series bearings, all sorts of add ons joined in like turbosmart fuel pressure reg, billet adjustable steering wheel spacer (->80mm) etc, got the fuel system a nice new run of teflon braided lines to supply the surgie and 044 and down to the factory lines under the car then up to the twin entry fuel rail to get rid of the incorrect lines that had been fitted previous to purchasing the car that were leaking vapour - yes, in the boot it smelt of fuel near the battery (yuk), I did have some fun also by doing the bonnet stop removal and some panel alignment work, then we hit up the new precision head bolts, main bolts etc and started closing her all up. I did get a bit of paint work in while we were going like the valve covers, block, sump etc to neaten the finished look for once we were all done.

We are currently waiting on the car to get tuned and Im sure Ill be able to set you all up with some photos soon, we will upload the photos that we have plus the photos from the tune and dyno sheets etc once the car comes back... Im hopeless and I apologise in advance because Im new to forums so I may get side tracked enjoying the car before posting pics but I will update you once I have all the shots together...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430519-33-gts-t-build/
Share on other sites

No trouble mate, thank you for the compliment, I have 156 shots thus far but as you can imagine there are alot of funny shots, double ups etc... We will narrow them down and post up the ones that explain things best and show things all done... Just really think its best to put up all the shots late next week when we get the car back and I can show you all the Dyno runs too... I cant wait!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430519-33-gts-t-build/#findComment-6976902
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
    • Is this a brand new LSD? if so, have you followed any break/bed in procedure for it? Usually involves heaps of figure 8 patterns, a fluid flush.
    • It's TWO steering wheels actually. 😛 one for each hand They are wheels, and they steer!
×
×
  • Create New...