Jump to content
SAU Community

new import site?

Torrens
 Share

Recommended Posts

Torrens Collaborator

Torrens

Posted
Posted

www.meisei.com.au

I was shown this site by my friend at work. He said that he's going to import from them right now. From what I can see the site is cool, easy to find the car you want, and has very nice large pictures for each one. I reckon the site is heaps better than anything I've seen.

It seems as though around Wednesday is when most of the auction cars are in, there is even an R34 GTR M-Spec available at the moment - hot!

=search&formdata[filter][chassis]=BNR34&formdata[filter][search]=t]http://www.meisei.com.au/index.htm?formcod...lter][search]=t

There is heaps more cars to check out, I sometimes lose track of time.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43063-new-import-site/
Share on other sites
Torrens Collaborator

Torrens

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I like Meisei's approach to searching and higher image qualities - especially for the auction cars.

Having access to better and higher resolution images means I can make a better call on getting a car that I want.

And the cost calculator is very comprehensive, it has all costs right there for one to look at - it's impressive.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43063-new-import-site/#findComment-884789
Share on other sites
Guest

Guest

Posted
Posted

It is all about the person in Japan buying the car,

If you are going through all the trouble you want the person who buys the car to inspect it in person or through a contact.

They need to read japanese for the auction report but not to buy it just off that info as some people do.

Those high resolution images are just the better ones off past auctions or from www.japanautodirect.com have a look at www.j-spec.com.au and you will see what I mean with auction photos.

It is like everything in life you pay for what you get, so do the research, talk to the Raws workshops in your area ask for anybody they can recomend to buy cars for them. They comply the cars so they know who buy's the good cars and who buys the shitters.

The membership fee is the same as paying J-Spec the brokerage fee so it is the same thing different name,

One last thing the current exchange rate is .76 cents and their converter dosent go that low so it will cost more.

Look at Performance Forums where J-Spec sponsors and lists some cars, just do your research, Saying what they want to do is different to what we do.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43063-new-import-site/#findComment-884876
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...