Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone

Thought I would start a build page for my project

Fj Holden with a RB 25det

post-118613-13772661798743_thumb.jpg

Plan so far is to rebuilt the engine with fairly standard internals, maybe a good set of forged slugs, balancing, a bit of porting new set of bolts to hold it all together, possibly some new cams, i already have a good greddy manifold copy, still need to buy exhaust manifold and gtx 3076 turbo and still not decided what ecu to use.

The front end I have is a new Rodtech unit with adjustable coil overs and a decent set of brakes.

post-118613-13772660147352_thumb.jpg

So far it's been fairly straight forward, major problems that I can see at the moment are the clutch master cylinder is fairly close to the inlet plenum and the throttle body flange is a bit too close to the inner guard so will have to cut and re position the flange.

The black spots on the firewall are where the vt brake booster and master cylinder and R33 clutch master cylinder will be mounted.

I will be recessing the firewall approximately 2" so the engine will be sitting back a bit further than in the picture to allow for the radiator and thermo fans

That's it for now

Keep you all posted with my progress

Cheers

Paul

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430726-fj-with-rb25det-build-page/
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Hi Winter

I would be interested in finding out if he has a flip front on it?

A fella I know over in Melbourne is having a few dramas etc with the brake master cylinder and the inlet manifold.

Be good to get some info from your dad for this mate of mine

Haven't tacked the mounts into place yet, recently had a new addition to the family so it is sort of on hold at the moment.

I do know that I will need to recess the firewall around 2-3 inches to give clearance for the thermo fan and radiator to be fitted in front of the engine

That is what is controlling where the engine will be mounted

I am not sure what you are going to be doing about your brakes but many fJ folk use the vt common whore pedal assembly

The assembly will hit on the inlet manifold and that's why I asked winter what his dad did and didn't really get the answer we were looking for

Paul

Ah I see

I am fitting the rb25det and licensing here wanted the twin system like in the vt so if you loose the front or rear they don't affect the other.

Also you may not have enough volume to accurate the Vt brakes properly.

Licensing here in Wa like to see you use the complete brake set up from a car, mainly because if you don't then you need to brake test it.

I am using the vt pedal box and vr front and vt rear discs and they still want to do a brake test.

Have you spoken to NT licensing and a brake specialist regarding your setup.

Also you will be needing a sump from a GQ pootroll I think it is, they came out with the RB 30 petrol and a RD 28 Diesel engine and have a rear bowl sump which you will have to modify a bit due to the bowl sitting down a fair bit but a shit load easier than making up a new sump.

And

I think that using the hr front end will raise your engine up an extra 120 mm or so.

The front end that I have is a very similar profile to the original FJ front end allowing the engine to sit that 120 mm lower than the hr front end

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes I can see how that would put you off HFM, especially with the price of good quality brake fluid. From what I understand it as you say the BM50 is the standard BMC for a R32 GTR, I must admit I would like to go far a Genuine Nissan BM57, but lack of cash prevents that at present. With the price being so close between the genuine BM50 and BM57 a BM57 New it seems a better choice as you gain that 1/16 bore size with the BM57, I would be interested in how much difference you feel with the BM57 fitted. I am going to take SteveL's advice in the short term and see how much actually comes out of that proportioning valve vent and save up for the Genuine Nissan part. Thanks for clarifying the HFM failure
    • Thanks mate. I just got the post inspection 1/2 done from state roads when the starter motor packed up, either that or the car alarm system is having trouble.  OEM part number 23300-AA112.
    • Hi, I though I was coming to an end in finding a replacement starter motor for a rb25de neo. I came across a starter motor from Taarks and a message below stating: Direct fit. 11 Tooth count. All below part numbers have been superseded to 11 teeth. Can some body shed some light on going from 8 teeth to 11 teeth apart from 36-month / 25,000 km warranty for passenger vehicles to 12 Month Warranty. Compatible with the following Nissan part numbers: 23300-20P00 23300-20P01 23300-20P05 23300-20P10 23300-20P11 23300-AA111 23300-AA112 23300-AA300 23300-08U10 23300-08U11 23300-08U15  
    • Low battery? Maybe check capacity? I know first-hand, on BMWs if your battery drops below 80% capacity, it starts causing strange issues.
    • 8.5 +37 = should fit rear, but I think it'll hit on front. What you want is low 30s/high 20's front, mid 30's rear. That 17" screenshot you posted looks good, I'd run it on my R32 (but that's long dead now). For tyre sizes, my rule of thumb is: 8': 235, 9": 255. But that's just my opinion. Nismo sizes: 18x8.5+35/18x9.5+38 is a good starting point.
×
×
  • Create New...