Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone

Thought I would start a build page for my project

Fj Holden with a RB 25det

post-118613-13772661798743_thumb.jpg

Plan so far is to rebuilt the engine with fairly standard internals, maybe a good set of forged slugs, balancing, a bit of porting new set of bolts to hold it all together, possibly some new cams, i already have a good greddy manifold copy, still need to buy exhaust manifold and gtx 3076 turbo and still not decided what ecu to use.

The front end I have is a new Rodtech unit with adjustable coil overs and a decent set of brakes.

post-118613-13772660147352_thumb.jpg

So far it's been fairly straight forward, major problems that I can see at the moment are the clutch master cylinder is fairly close to the inlet plenum and the throttle body flange is a bit too close to the inner guard so will have to cut and re position the flange.

The black spots on the firewall are where the vt brake booster and master cylinder and R33 clutch master cylinder will be mounted.

I will be recessing the firewall approximately 2" so the engine will be sitting back a bit further than in the picture to allow for the radiator and thermo fans

That's it for now

Keep you all posted with my progress

Cheers

Paul

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430726-fj-with-rb25det-build-page/
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Haven't tacked the mounts into place yet, recently had a new addition to the family so it is sort of on hold at the moment.

I do know that I will need to recess the firewall around 2-3 inches to give clearance for the thermo fan and radiator to be fitted in front of the engine

That is what is controlling where the engine will be mounted

I am not sure what you are going to be doing about your brakes but many fJ folk use the vt common whore pedal assembly

The assembly will hit on the inlet manifold and that's why I asked winter what his dad did and didn't really get the answer we were looking for

Paul

Ah I see

I am fitting the rb25det and licensing here wanted the twin system like in the vt so if you loose the front or rear they don't affect the other.

Also you may not have enough volume to accurate the Vt brakes properly.

Licensing here in Wa like to see you use the complete brake set up from a car, mainly because if you don't then you need to brake test it.

I am using the vt pedal box and vr front and vt rear discs and they still want to do a brake test.

Have you spoken to NT licensing and a brake specialist regarding your setup.

Also you will be needing a sump from a GQ pootroll I think it is, they came out with the RB 30 petrol and a RD 28 Diesel engine and have a rear bowl sump which you will have to modify a bit due to the bowl sitting down a fair bit but a shit load easier than making up a new sump.

And

I think that using the hr front end will raise your engine up an extra 120 mm or so.

The front end that I have is a very similar profile to the original FJ front end allowing the engine to sit that 120 mm lower than the hr front end

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...