Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

For Sale
Price: $11,750 ONO
Make: BMW
Model: E30 323i
Year: 1985
Engine: SR20DET Red Top
Mileage: 223,000
Drive: 5 Speed Manual S13 Gearbox, M3 4.1:1 LSD
Tyres: 15" Astron ROH alloys with near new tyres
Brakes R32 GTR calipers - 4 piston front 2 piston rear - 270mm front disc - 240mm rear disc
Aircon: Aircon works well
RWC: RWC and Rego - Neg for interstate buyers
Engineering This car has been engineered for all mods in QLD and NSW - Paperwork is in order and will be provided

Exterior: Paint is in good condition. The front left corner has a slight crease due to rubbing a tyre wall during a time trial even in Townsville.

Interior: Very good condition. Black, everything works and is very well fitted. WRX 2004 seats

Engine: SR20DET fitted with a HKS2540 turbo, EVO 6 intercooler, NISMO 740cc injectors, Adaptronic ECU, Varex(adjustable) 3 inch exhaust.

Other Details: I built this car in Townsville back in 2007 probably. I planned on racing it in the local events, but time did not allow as I was away most of the time for work. I managed a few events but decided to sell it due to the above lack of time and the fact I had a work car and no room. It then got sold to a nice fellow in NSW from this forum, who looked after it and did some extra things along the way. I bought the car back from him the middle of last year.

The aircon is cold, the stereo is subtle but capable, the varex allows you to putt along like a grandy. The Adaptronic is probably one of the most tuned ECU's in the world, I am always making a tweak here or there ensuring the car is perfect. Things like AC idle up, cold start are better than a stock beige camry.

This is obviously a pretty fun car, it has a solid power band and really is a joy to drive. I am selling it because I often have to drive 100+km a day for work, and while it is paid for, the car shouldn't really just rack up KM's for no reason. I will be getting something a little more suited to mind numbing driving and bide my time for a nice build I think.

Contact Details: 0428 849 062 Jason Broadhurst
Location: Banyo North Brisbane


e30-green-1.JPG
e30-green-2.JPG
e30-green-3.JPG
e30-green-4.JPG
e30-green-5.JPG
e30-green-6.JPG
e30-green-7.JPG
e30-green-8.JPG
e30-green-9.JPG
e30-green-10.JPG
e30-green-11.JPG
e30-green-12.JPG
e30-green-13.JPG
e30-green-14.JPG
e30-green-15.JPG
e30-green-16.JPG
e30-green-17.JPG
e30-green-18.JPG
e30-green-19.JPG
e30-green-20.JPG
e30-green-21.JPG
e30-green-22.JPG

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430822-bmw-e30-sr20det-11750-brisbane/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

List of spares;

Seats

Carpets cream

Door skins cream

Another whole interiour worth of plastics, switches, handles etc etc

M Tech rear valance and dove tail - This is cool and should be fitted but no time

All offers considered

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope, I don't like the look of ND RF, or any ND really, I don't like their faces or arses, why, because of their "modern" lines, the NC, whilst "modernish" has a more rounded shape that I like Well, that's how my overly judgemental eyes see it anyway  
    • Should be more than fine, especially the overall fuel pressure would never exceed 3.5bar (assuming that thing never gets more than 0.5bar of boost in stock form). According to the chart, it's 11amps.
    • I definitely know the first rule here, look first, ask second. I've seen many people get roasted 😂 I found a few diagrams for the RB, but I'm yet to come across one for the VQ. From what I have read, the pump gets the +12v along with the FPCM, and it's the negative wire that gets passed through the resistor to regulate the voltage. So I assume I can just ground the negative wire at the pump to eliminate the FPCM control. But I really wanted to see the VQ circuit diagram first to make sure I understood it correctly. Once the new pump is in I'll do some testing to see how it behaves, and in the meantime, I'll keep looking for a wiring diagram. Thanks for your help mate, your time is greatly appreciated.    
    • Maybe? I have the Supercheap ToolPro low thingo. It has a somewhat smaller diameter lifting "bowl" than you would expect on a workshop grade trolley jack, and a split rubber pad to suit that diameter. It clears the "N1" style skirts I have. Probably wouldn't if the jack's bowl and a suitably larger rubber block were in use. Having said that though.....you only need the rubber block to exist on the inner side of the pinchweld, so could carve away any rubber that fouled the skirt, leaving some there for "insurance" </simples>
    • I used to do that (sills with rubber jack block).. ... then I got side skirts, and there's no way for the jack to actually work there, the jack pad itself on the jack is too big. Is the answer to use a... smaller (?) jack? Hmmm.
×
×
  • Create New...