Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So the time has come to start the conversion! So I am chasing an rb30 series 2 block, what ever you have let me know, if it's already assembled and forged I am still interested. Standard or stuffed 30 block is fine to as it will be getting rebuilt.

100km from caboolture area only please.

Great choice! I've just bought one too! Hope you find something.

Bunta said when i was looking for one that Noel comes across these parts occasionally and one might be coming up soon

Yeah looking forward to it, yeah I seen you acquired one somewhere for a steal lol, lucky bastard. Will definitely be keeping a close eye for one.

What's your plans for your setup?

ive just purchased a Precision 6466 going to highmount that bad boy and see what numbers i can push out. More inclined to take it to the drags than too many circuit days. Happy laps too, Sprint days wont be its forte

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi there, If you get stuck I have a rebuilt RB30 series 2 bottom end that i'm think of selling. has about 20,000k's on it from memory. $330. In Rothwell 4022 on brisbane northside.

  • 2 months later...
  • 1 month later...

have a A8 turbo block. just been honed and decked painted in candy red over gold with a balanced and ground crank. Sitting at 87mm

hey guys i have sourced a block a while ago now, thanks for looking out for me though.

i also have a spare rb30 series 2 block to sell if anyone is interested



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No. GKTech arms have spherical bearings in them. No bushes. You will not need bushes for those arms. The sphericals are a bit of a maintenance nightmare. I have replaced all of mine several times in the 5 or so years I've had them, and I have the arms out regularly to clean and lube the balls. Worth the pain on an R32, because the standard arm design is trash. If you need the camber adjustment, there are other options (than the GKTech ones), although I would still lean towards and prefer the GKTech ones, even with the maintenance load of the sphericals. The caster adjustment is also highly valuable, allowing for setting the car up to drive straight. There are a million options for these, including the GKTech ones. I've had Tein rods on mine for 20 years and the balls are much less trouble in that location. Never given me a moment's pain. All positives, no negatives. I consider them compulsory.
    • Lol yeah I ordered the clips mentioned and as far as the amayama diagrams go i think thats all I'll need. Fogured id ask, sometimes people's first hand experience doesnt always match up to diagrams haha, i guess I'll wing it and worse comes to worse I'll just deal with it as I go
    • Thanks for all that information I appreciate it. To answer your questions: - Yep that's what I mean. These guys are professional painters to so I must be missing something. It's a bit hard to explain. - With the primer landing on clearcoat, I make sure that the surrounding clearcoat is scuffed to 240 grit as my epoxy primer says that I only need to sand the area to 240 grit. - Yeah so similar to the first question, assuming that the paint landed on the unscuffed clearcoat because I've seen that happen. - Yep I want to prep the surface in that order. Only reason because epoxy primer will protect it from rust and I need that atm with this crappy Sydney weather. I think I was worried about time, if I try to put the filler down but screw it up somehow and I don't have time to sand it off and reapply it then need to put primer later that it might start to rust again so I wanted to apply the primer as quick as possible to not deal with rust.  - I just deleted some answers, I just realised after watching a video and what you said about looking at the data sheet, that I need to read the data sheet on the specific filler I'm using. It's possible now that I put epoxy primer first was a waste of time and need to go to bare metal lol
    • I did. I went to a suspension guy and he told me because I don't have adjustable camber arms it's the reason why my car veers towards the left if I take my hands off the wheel but if I drive my other every day car and take my hands off the steering wheel it goes completely straight. I think it's common with Skyline's. In order to fix the problem, I likely need gktech camber arms then nismo bushes since I have poly bushes atm, then a wheel alignment after that. With my car if I take my hands off the steering wheel on a really bumpy road before stopping at a light I have to hold my steering wheel somewhat tight otherwise my car will legit just go completely in the other direction quite quickly and I'll slam into something lol instead of stopping straight. I Believe this YouTuber had the same issue and fixed it with gktech arms. At timestmap 6:05 he talks about how the car doesn't veer anymore after installing these arms.  
    • hello! does anyone have a schematic that shows how to test the blower motor resistor for the vac system? i believe the part# is 27761-15U00. I think the resistor is toast, but would like to be able to test it somehow before i embark on the journey to find a new one. cheers! 27761-15U00
×
×
  • Create New...