Jump to content
SAU Community

Mugabetown - Whoretownin' At It's Worst.


Recommended Posts

One way so solve a lot of thoes, 26 head ;)

There is threads and PDFs and a mountain load of info on them I think I should be pretty right to tackle it. No doubt I will encounter issues but this is a learning experiance and training for me, and not sure on if it will be going in mine or getting sold, ATM if I sell it Kathryn's had already chosen what the money from it is going towards

Biggest tip - buy a Dremel tool with metal cut blades. The timing gear is a real c-bomb to get off - cut through the key way first and opposite side second and when almost there crack the final bit by prying apart. That way you won't nick the crank. I know someone wrote about this on SAU, but what they wrote doesn't go far enough.

Can you post up a link please :)

DaneSandilandsEvoV0002_zps95f8e91b.jpg

hi guys i have other things i want to get done soon so im looking to sell my car as many of you that have followed the build know there havent been any corners cut here its all the best parts and car is set up ready to go.

have hardley driven it to be honest and its part of the reason im looking to off load it, its doing nothing sitting in my garage week after week and i want to travel next year.

feel free to ask any questions via PM on here, or email me on info[@]isurrounds.com.au

looking for $ 30,000 firm

details :

Engine:

2.3lt stroker motor

Manley knife edge billet 100mm balanced crank.

Wiesco hd1400 pistons 9.0cr

Howard's ultimate duty billet I beam rods upgraded arp bolts.

Acid dipped block honed and decked

New Walsh plugs.

AMs balance shaft delete.

Ported valve thoats

1mm oversize super tech valves

1mm oversize super tech black exhaust valves.

Super tech double valve springs.

Super tech titanium retainers.

Super tech stem seals.

Greedy adjustable cam gears.

Kelford 280 cam shafts.

Custom air box

Custom 4 inch intake

Custom oil breather catch can with speed flow fittings and Teflon lines.

Kiggly Hla oil pressure reg

New water pump

New oil pump

New gaskets

Acl race bearings

Map h11 head studs

Oem head gasket

Pwr alloy radiator

Custom inter cooler piping

Hdi hybrid inter cooler

Precision 6466 bb turbo

Jmf tubular steam pipe manifold heat coated

Turbo smart 45 mm hypergate

Custom screamer pipe

Turbo smart race port bov

AMs rocker cover plate

Custom sprayd rocker covering

Upgraded thermo fan

Clear timing cover

Gates racing belts

I'd 2000 injectors

Ams billet fuel rail

Turbo smart fpr 800 regulator

Mitsubishi fitting kit

2x intank wahlbros

Upgraded braided Teflon fuel lines to rail

Speed flow fittings

Upgraded fuel filter

Braided lines to reg and flex sensor

3 inch custom v band dump pipe heat wrapped

3 inch full straight through exhaust

De cat

3 inch muffler

Lightened flywheel

Quarter master 8 leg twin plate clutch with hydraulic release bearing and STM clutch cable

Standard gear box

Standard Diffs and transfer

Ohlins DFV adjustable coil overs

White line adjustable front sway bar

WhIte line adjustable rear sway bar

White line bump steer correction kit

Standard strut brace

Haltech ps1000 ecu

Haltech air temp sensor

Haltech oil press sensor

Haltech fuel pressure sensor

Haltech wide band afr sensor

Haltech boost solenoid

Haltech flex sensor

Haltech 4 bar map sensor

Haltech race paq dash display

Upgraded dba 4000 slotted brake rotors front with project mu pads

Upgraded dba 4000 slotted brake rotors rear with project mu pads

Enkei rfp1 black wheels 17x8.5. X +22

Federal rsr tyres

Carbon fibre boot lid

Standard boot lid

Recently fully serviced with all Diffs oil changed , gearbox and motor done

Motor has done 2,500 Kay's since build

Car was tuned by Powertune

501.4 kw @ 42psi

link to sale thread on Evo Oz http://www.evolutionoz.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=87686

Biggest tip - by a Dremel tool with metal cut blades. The timing gear is a real c-bomb to get off - cut through the key way first and opposite side second and when almost there crack the final bit by prying apart. That way you won't nick the crank. I know someone wrote about this on SAU, but what they wrote doesn't go far enough.

Yeah had to deal with this on a rb20 at the workshop

We cut and cold chiseled till it split

But this one has a bit of oil around if so I recon it will come off pretty easy

Also sprayed it with inox and will let is soak over night

Yeah had to deal with this on a rb20 at the workshop

We cut and cold chiseled till it split

But this one has a bit of oil around if so I recon it will come off pretty easy

Also sprayed it with inox and will let is soak over night

RB30 are an absolute pain in the a - I inoxed and wd40d the hell out of the last three and still had to cut gears, even top line pullers wouldn't sit behind gear. I can't understand how they rust on the inside of a press fit machined surface??

That list of mods was like a tick the box exercise compared to my E3 - with exception of I have a better cooler, I also have block o'ringed and head receiver grooved and 290 by 11.5 cams.

you have too many crazy cars :P

you have too many crazy cars :P

I know, I know. I am seriously wondering whether OCD can manifest in car collecting :)

Thanks for your help on Sat :) I am looking into getting Hardrace components for the top camber arms. AND the Craziest has now begun :)

It's not press for they slide on and off pretty sure they might be a tight fit but I don't rember them being press

But if they are you learn new things everyday

It's a very tight fit - does have a keyway lock. Cannot understand how they rust there??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...