Jump to content
SAU Community

Mugabetown - Whoretownin' At It's Worst.


Recommended Posts

Made some weird noise waiting at the lights like something bad broke then proceeded to drive with a horrible miss

Checked over it at the local servo couldn't find anything and car would start and run but has a bad miss.. at first thought it was the turbo shat itself out the exhaust but still makes boost...

im thinking ignition problem

But if u heard something break........that's not good.

Fouled spark plug

Check over all the connection people forget that they're all 20 years old and brittle so they easily break. Doesn't explain a Lou noise though :/

Nick has a valid point here - could also just be hose that blew off......

Yeah hopefully it's just the copper plugs I been running for far to long and not something else.

only one way to find mate - x fingers its only minor repair

Sitting idle at the lights is when it started revs where under 1000rpm

Get missfire under 3k when causing at 100km/h it seems all fine :/

When I get home I'll pull the plugs

Btw I am running splitfire coil packs only about 4 years old.

Have to get technical on this stuff.

Any description is better than a something is broken noise. Can't be that bad of a noise, otherwise (I) would not be driving anywhere after hearing it.

BTW, 3 zeds in shed. 2 engines out.

Edited by MagicMikeZ32

What kind of noise did it make? Crack, bang, mechanical metal on metal or something else? Whirr?

Bang but metal on metal noise but like a rock bouncing under the car.. first though was it's someone else's car but I did feel it in my feet..

When I took off it blew 1 puff of white smoke... not sure if it was my car or another car as it didn't do it again for the rest of the trip to work.. only thing is the big missfire

First thing I'll do is check the plugs

I pulled in to the servo up the road and checked everything I could and all looked and sounded normal... The noise before hand could be irelavant but seemed to happen at the same time it decided to run like shit

I pulled in to the servo up the road and checked everything I could and all looked and sounded normal... The noise before hand could be irelavant but seemed to happen at the same time it decided to run like shit

I'm inclined to think that its not irrelevant and that they are somehow associated with one another Ed.

Whenever a bang happens and then the car runs like crap - I think its rather important to find out the reasons for the cause so you can rectify it, otherwise you may think that all is well and continue driving the car until the inevitable happens.

Get to it before it gets to you.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...