Jump to content
SAU Community

Mugabetown - Whoretownin' At It's Worst.


Recommended Posts

Yeah. Doesn't matter about shaft play etc, they just need it to be in reasonably working order.

They just need the housings to not be f**ked, can even have all the blades missing.

So after an evening of pondering intercooler stuffs, i think i may have figured out the "but stock gtr cooler is good for 400kw's!" thing.

A few people have commented that they can't do back to back power runs on the dyno with them, so it seems like the stock one is plenty big enough of a heat sink for a little bit of a squirt, but then its way to oversaturated with heat to keep the job up afterwards.

The question is, is an ARC one going to be any better (only 10mm thicker, but better fin design?) or should I go for a bigger one down the road instead of hanging out for an ARC one...

I have an ARC. I have no heat soak issues. In a GTR coolers defence driving is quite different to being on a dyno in front of a fan. Intercooler would be low on my priority list

You're quite right, you'll be getting more airflow on the open road. However, there still has to be a limit to it, although that's going to be depending on a lot of factors. ambient temp, power, how much power is being used, how often, and for how long. I honestly don't know the answer and short of sticking a temp sensor into the outlet of the cooler i'm not sure i will know.

However, that being said, Sean did recommend a new cooler. And i'd like to get one now that will be good for 400kw down the road. So I dunno.

So after an evening of pondering intercooler stuffs, i think i may have figured out the "but stock gtr cooler is good for 400kw's!" thing.

A few people have commented that they can't do back to back power runs on the dyno with them, so it seems like the stock one is plenty big enough of a heat sink for a little bit of a squirt, but then its way to oversaturated with heat to keep the job up afterwards.

The question is, is an ARC one going to be any better (only 10mm thicker, but better fin design?) or should I go for a bigger one down the road instead of hanging out for an ARC one...

I'm running Chinese quality FMIC costing $300/$400

As Bunts said tis a lower priority than other mods on you're list

You're quite right, you'll be getting more airflow on the open road. However, there still has to be a limit to it, although that's going to be depending on a lot of factors. ambient temp, power, how much power is being used, how often, and for how long. I honestly don't know the answer and short of sticking a temp sensor into the outlet of the cooler i'm not sure i will know.

However, that being said, Sean did recommend a new cooler. And i'd like to get one now that will be good for 400kw down the road. So I dunno.

rule of thumb goes like so

300rwkw stock cooler ok

Anything over get a bigger cooler as the car / turbos will generate more heat that's what I used

Car was making 285kw's on 98, so I dam well hope its making over 300 on E85... I think i'll upgrade now.

I've been making up a bit of a spreadsheet of all things i want to do to the car, with prices and whatever other info I want to put in there, just so i can organise my head and jot down stuff so i don't forget it.

Shits expensive. UP to 25K already.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Its also worth mentioning that 30 years after it left the factory and god knows how many missed oil changes since, there is every possibility that one or more lifters are ticking because they are sticky/gummed up. To resolve that you need to pull the cams then pull each lifter, disassemble, clean, reassemble, soak in oil and re-install, and they should come up good as new.
    • What air filter are you running? Is it a panel filter in the stock air box, or a pod filter? Is the air filter the type that is oiled?   If you unplug the IACV, what rpm does the engine idle at?
    • Reading through the engine service manual their advice is do a cylinder balance test. Unplug one injector at a time and see if the idle drops a consistent RPM. You can also do this using a Consult cable which is easier. They also call for unplugging the power transistor, then with the engine off and the fuel rail unhooked from the manifold verifying that you have good fuel flow (even injection, no dripping/leaks, etc) when you twist the CAS by hand. Also verify the spark by pulling the spark plugs and allowing the plugs to ground and turning the CAS by hand. I would also start doing the sensor checks and idle valve checks in service manual. Make sure the MAF tests reasonably, the intake air regulator is sane, etc. You may have to get new spark plugs.
    • This sounds very old of me, however since buying the Tiguan shit box, my view on shit boxes have changed.
    • I've looked up the parts number (41011AL501). It's around $700 OEM. Usually our Infiniti G35 here in Canada have interchangeable parts with my Stagea but the parts number are not the same. I have looked around and it seems the JDM 2005 V35 Skyline (which is the same as our G35) has the same caliper but I cannot confirm. And I can't find a repair kit. The inner brake pads drags on the rotor, seems to be rusty piston. Thanks for the info by the way
×
×
  • Create New...