Jump to content
SAU Community

Mugabetown - Whoretownin' At It's Worst.


Recommended Posts

Car was making 285kw's on 98, so I dam well hope its making over 300 on E85... I think i'll upgrade now.

I've been making up a bit of a spreadsheet of all things i want to do to the car, with prices and whatever other info I want to put in there, just so i can organise my head and jot down stuff so i don't forget it.

Shits expensive. UP to 25K already.

does this include head work Pete?

Would love to review you're spreadsheet PM me if you can

Needs more pool fence.

Well, i mean, it looks great without more pool fence but needs it. dam regulations

first thing I thought......how no fence? it doesnt look like an old pool.

Nice!. LED's are rad.......but pool lights in general are a bad thing :( they never last

Yeah i did the same thing. Terrifying isnt it.

From all the options I laid out i think the best bang for buck gtr wise is -9s with supporting mods, overfill the oil and go nuts on brakes and suspension and tyres. 300-330kw responsive as hell and fairly reliable if you pick up a late model 32 with the updated crank.

Enough to have loads of fun on the street and on track but not so expensive that you're shitting yourself every time you're on track or you break stuff every time it gets taken for a drive.

Thats what I'm looking for in my next one, maybe some time next year.

Yeah ideally we'd all be able to afford 450kw monsters but unfortunately thats not the case.

Cost/benefit wise how much happier will you be with 400kw than with 300kw? Or even 200kw?

Not to mention the opportunity cost of spending 40k on a gtr vs investing it in something that will give you a return.

Sorry for being a bit of a downer lol

Yeah ideally we'd all be able to afford 450kw monsters but unfortunately thats not the case.

Cost/benefit wise how much happier will you be with 400kw than with 300kw? Or even 200kw?

Not to mention the opportunity cost of spending 40k on a gtr vs investing it in something that will give you a return.

Sorry for being a bit of a downer lol

nope. You are just thinking what most others are mate.

I agree. Aiming for 400+kw is not gonna be cheap either way you look at it.

Plus after you go beyond 450rwkw things start to shit itself ie transmission, driveshafts

I like to keep the power levels (for Skyline GTR) pegged at 446kw / 600hp that's enoughto scare the shit outa you and maintain a good balance between power and reliability

But that's just my opinion

I'll probably start a build thread and attach something when I get back from work tonight. Some figures are hand wavy, like head work, others are more precise. Realized when I went to bed last night that I forgot to include costs for a crank trigger, but that's what this list is for.

as far as money goes, I'm not going to be doing the expensive engine work until probably the end of next year, and I'm putting away savings 2:1 to investment:car in that time, so yeah, I'd rather spend it on the car.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
    • Hi.. Just another problem. So maybe you can help. I(my mechanic) done swap from my RB20DE NEO to RB25DET NEO. Everything is OK but we have a boost cut. Coils/Plugs are ok...AFM is ok. ECU is ok. I have Walbro 255 but it "changed" sound few months ago(you can hear it ouside) you did not hear that when it was new(maybe faulty?) Sooo...what now? What can cause this boost cut? It is even when you standing still...
×
×
  • Create New...