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Mugabetown - Whoretownin' At It's Worst.


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In other shit news just got back from the vet, the cat requires additional work, in addition to this our body corporate got levied again, there goes $3200 out of the fixing my car fund

For $3200 that cat better transform into some pretty cool shit or be able to run at 60kmph.

For $3200 that cat better transform into some pretty cool shit or be able to run at 60kmph.

Hahahaha ninja cat! Gets sorted out but comes out as a cheater...

I was busy reading the last 3 pages from last night, then saw R32, had to post.

haha lured you in with R32

Might take the kids go karting

Naw I wanna go!

That's it! How old do They have to be? I want to take Tyler in. He'd love it!

There wasn't even a go kart track anywhere near where I lived growing up, I didn't go karting until Zane took me when I was like... 21 :down:

When I was working at a go kart place in Canberra the min age was 6 (depending on their height)

And how stupid the kid was...

Waaa take me? Someone come and work for me so I can go!

For $3200 that cat better transform into some pretty cool shit or be able to run at 60kmph.

I think sir Bunts wanted to save for a crank trigger setup which is rather exy. That plus parts, labour, and tune.........$3,200 will be reduced to nothingness very quickly

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    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
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