Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guyths!

Just bought a R33 GTST last weekend. Needs some fixing but all the engine and gearbox and going strong.

I've owned a

Honda Civic EG 1.3L carby,

Honda Civic FD2 Sport

Honda Integra DC5R with K24 conversion

(See a pattern?)

Nissan Silvia S15

now this GTST.

Looking to learning heaps from you all.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431242-new-member-with-a-r33-gtst/
Share on other sites

Hi Guyths!

Just bought a R33 GTST last weekend. Needs some fixing but all the engine and gearbox and going strong.

I've owned a

Honda Civic EG 1.3L carby,

Honda Civic FD2 Sport

Honda Integra DC5R with K24 conversion

(See a pattern?)

Nissan Silvia S15

now this GTST.

Looking to learning heaps from you all.

you finally became a man instead of a hairdresser?

  • Like 1

welcome

Thanks man.

Here's a write up I did, included some pics too.

So I sold my S15, due to me wanting to get into property, become loaded and retiring at 40, so I can play with cars.
To replace the S15 I bought a White 96 R33 GTST Series 2 Skyline. The paint is not the greatest and I didn't care. My main search criteria was its mechanical health. I was scoping out R33's. My budget was 9K MAX for everything - transferring of rego and getting it up to standard.
I saw x2 neglected R33's, x1 unroadworthy R33's, a pushy salesman, x3 very nice well kept examples (one of out my range, one was sadly a series one =( , one was keen on getting but got nabbed), got time wasted, and there was one prick seller all in a week.
R33's are plentiful and Daz was on the prowl. This lucky guy put his ad up for 6 hours and I bought it.
It came with 170,056 km (Believe-able, prefer this than some shonky rewound example) and it looked the part. All wear and tear corresponded with what I was told.
-Paint is shit as mentioned (I plan on getting scars anyway) light panel damage but the chassis is straight.
-Engine has noisy lifters, but threw up a good compression result
-Gearbox not silky like that clean white one I saw but I can still get about 100,000km out of it if I take care of it.
-Diff = no wierd noises
It came with a unknown TBE, Enclosed POD, Otomoto FMIC, Apexi boost controller mated to a Apexi Power FC D JETRO running on a MAP sensor. NOIIICE.
Wanky HKS SSQV with loud attachment. NFS CF hood. Recaro sr2 seat? Hicas lock bar. Fuel pump.
Problems - It has this problem where when I give it when it gets to 4-5K rpm its sputters and then goes into limp mode, I initially thought it was a boost leak, then spark plugs. I took it to see Mark from Unigroup his confident its the fuel pump. A Walbro 255l/h is on the way.
DSC_0150_zps0b37821a.jpg
DSC_0149_zps853515ed.jpg
DSC_0152_zps4709171a.jpg
DSC_0151_zps979c4e3d.jpg
First thing to go was the CF hood. Stands out too much and with the HKS SSQV I didnt want to get familiar with the local constabulatory. Disconnected the BOV, until I can find a blanking plate and just flutter 24/7.
This is what I've noticed so far with the R33.
They all have this nifty seat belt arm that keeps it extended so you dont have to reach that far back +1
The motor feels more torquey and monstrous than a SR20. I LOOVE the exhaust note and roar. I always thought my Sr20 sounded droney and boring. +1
Sparkplugs are a bitch to change. IC piping is in the way plus there are 6 of them lol. And I thought changing plugs on my Sr20 was a bitch -1
A lot more space in the engine bay ie Oil filter is easy to get to, so is the fuel filter +1
Tow points at the front are further out so its easy to jack up +1
I like how on the RB25 box the drain and fill plugs are 1/2 inch grub screws, instead of 24mm bolts on a SR20 that require washers everytime. Teflon and your good to go.
Second thing I did was service it. The guy I bought it off was either noob or is a very good actor. He obviously didn't give a f**k about it. Lucky it wasnt too late to rescue this fine piece of hardware. Automotive Archaeology is fun.
1. Liquid Moly Engine Detox - Expensive stuff. I think it worked.
DSC_0131_zps2bdcb295.jpg
2. Penrite HPR 10-40 Full Synthetic oil.
3. Had some Redline MT90 left over and bought some Diff fluid.
DSC_0148_zps731108ee.jpg
Always undo the filler plug first my friend learnt this the hard way. I like how on these gb they are 1/2 inch grub screws, instead of 24mm bolts on a SR20 that require washers everytime.
DSC_0141_zps6b1b2fb3.jpg
Then the drain
DSC_0142_zps2b7d64c9.jpg
f**king hell look at that. As the fluid came out it didnt look that bad. No big pieces, just mass metal shavings. I let it drain while I started on the diff.
DSC_0143_zpsaab22b2f.jpg
f**k me dead Nissan PUT THE FILL PLUG ON THE OTHER SIDE.
DSC_0143_zpsaab22b2f.jpg
Now the diff fluid look black as f**k.
DSC_0146_zps6c065327.jpg
Again. Mass metal shavings, no big shit thank f**k.
DSC_0145_zps8f3acbcf.jpg
Now filled the gearbox up with MT90 using my contraption. This thing is sick.
DSC_0147_zps0775af4d.jpg
Then the diff and clean up. That can in the corner is the best degreaser I've ever had. You lot should buy.
Taking it for a spin the box felt better. But Redline MT90 is not magic as people make you believe. I will try Redline Superlight Shockproof next time. If that doesnt work then Redline is shit in my books.
Now today I wanted to change my fuel filter but had to take the fuel pump fuse out. This was in the boot behind this.
DSC_0156_zpsd47da9e0.jpg
Now I'm not a fan of sound systems or the CD the previous owner left in the car. So it had to go.
The stuff he used aint that half bad. Just the execution was poor HAHAHAHA he mounted it wonky.
DSC_0157_zps20fae63d.jpg
Looks better. Boot space is the tools and extra wheels only.
DSC_0158_zpsc03529fa.jpg
Pulling up the seats I found papers of a lady that died in 2008, scissors and a notepad with an address. Nothing unusual.
My fuel pump came in the mail too.
DSC_0154_zpse2cf11f7.jpg
That's it guyths I'm off. Enough shit talking on the net for me today.

looks very neat.

Thanks man, that one reason why I got it. Inside is pretty tidy, all floor mats, carpets good underneath no missing trim, only evidence of a crappy sound system install lol.

tell me more about these papers of a lady that died in 2008. that may just be the most unusual discovery from an import..

Yea I was being sarcastic. Her last name was Hizola or Hizolo and she lived from approx 1928 to 2008. My guess is she was Filipino.

You the same Darksky34 on Jdmst?

Edited by Legendaryl

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for the info. The only "Issue" I've had with the shifter is I always found the throw between 4th and 6th gear too close. I'm always worried to shift into 4th accidently and sending my motor to the moon. Adam LZ recently came out with a video and stated Serialnine revised their shifters to correct this and will change all the revised parts for 150$. Strangely enough, I contacted Serialnine right after and they denied it and said it's bullshit. I found that strange as he's a distributer. I'll keep this forum post updated on that saga.
    • Yep that is correct. It allows you to adjust the short throw range from what I can tell
    • Car has been running great, I've put about 300km's of break in time on it. First thing that stands out with properly sealing rings is no more noticeable crankcase smell coming out of my catch can. This may seem insignificant, but the constant smell while driving around was infuriating. It's also nice to see my oil level remain stable. Two new issues have developed that I only noticed this weekend though. There's a very noticeable driveline vibration past 100kmh. I only noticed it now as I've been babying it under 100kmh in the backroads. This comes as no surprise as I'm running a one-piece shaft, and I paid zero attention to my driveshaft angle when I put everything back in. I also have a fair bit of voltage drop on hot starts. The starter audibly is forcing. No issues on cold start though. I must not have removed all the paint under my main block ground during assembly. I'll try and take care of both those issues this week once the kids are asleep.  I also received all the parts I was missing for my direct port setup. I will hopefully have pictures of that up soon. I'm hoping to get back on the dyno the week of June 30th as I'll be on vacation. I'm confident I should be able to make north of 500rwkw on pump gas and WMI. I'll go back again later this summer with E98, but I want to confirm my ethanol content sensor is working properly first. I've never seen it read anything but 11%. This makes sense for our 10% ethanol content pump gas here, but I would expect the occasional movement between fill ups. 
    • 75% complete. Will now need to get a new axle with 5x114.3 hubs and then figure out how to customize some mudguards for it once the wheels are on.
    • Trailer prep is underway... Lined up the wheel to get a rough indication of how it would sit Then removed all the bits (as far as possible) and gave the frame a light sand and quick lick of paint   Then added some carpet
×
×
  • Create New...