Jump to content
SAU Community

A31 Oem Wind Deflectors

Lum

By Lum,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

Lum Community Regular

Lum

Posted
Posted (edited)

Not happy today.

So my GF has borrowed my Cefiro because her S13 is in for repairs again. She drives a lot faster than I do and the front passenger side wind deflector decided it didn't want to be attached to the car any more, preferred the front grille of the car behind.

Any idea where I can get another one? These are the original purple tinted Nissan ones with the chrome strip on them.

Alternatively, how do I remove the little metal prongs that it attached to as these are quite sharp and will probably make it fail it's next MOT test.

Edited by Lum
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431602-a31-oem-wind-deflectors/
Share on other sites
Nic_A31 Grand Master

Nic_A31

Posted
Posted

To remove the clips, wind the window down, pull out the innder door/window seal, then there's 3 screws along the chrome trim piece holding it onto the door, take the chrome trim off and the clips come out with it, then just reinsert the trim, then the seal, then you're done.

You can get a set of similar weather shields off eBay. but these are held on with adhesive tape only, no clips.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-DOOR-Visor-Rain-Guard-NISSAN-MAXIMA-CEFIRO-A31-SEDAN-/180763205681?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a1653a031&vxp=mtr

I've got a set of these myself and they're pretty decent, the only thing I don't like is having to re-apply some fresh tape (maybe once every 6-12 months).

You'd probably have better luck sticking them on with Sikaflex (or whatever you call it over there).

As for OEM parts, I tried to get these from Nissan a few years ago and they couldn't even find the parts in Nissan FAST, when they did eventually find part numbers, they were long obsolete.

Lum Community Regular

Lum

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well, I have my car back now so will take them off. Luckily it seems the car has a chrome strip under the wind deflectors so if I polish that up a bit it should look quite nice. Those ebay ones are missing the chrome strip so will look odd on my car.

I'll have at go at it, either tomorrow at the weekend, and see how I get on. Thanks for the reply.

Nic_A31 Grand Master

Nic_A31

Posted
Posted (edited)

The eBay ones don't look too bad, they do insert over the chrome so there isn't much you can do about that but they're a nice fit and they have CEFIRO printed on them.

They're better and worse compared to OEM.

Better because they go all the way down the front door frame to the side mirror, the OEM shields stop short and water gets in down that area when it's raining - kind of defeats the point if you cant have the windows an inch open when its raining.

Worse than OEM because the front and rear shields don't sit flush, they each stop and mold around the edge of the door :(

Pics below.

2s6owva.jpg

346ls40.jpg

Edited by Nic_A31
Lum Community Regular

Lum

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ok, I've got the other 3 of mine off, and the chrome underneath looks mostly ok, just needs a bit of a clean up now.

Only problem is the bottom edge of the chrome strip had a rubber seal. Looks like it's only between the chrome and the door itself, not part of the window seal, but on both front doors this was ruined and not recoverable, so I ended up peeling it off.

Have I doomed my car to leaking for the rest of its life now?

  • 1 month later...
Jswljones Enthusiast

Jswljones

Posted
Posted

Well what i did to match my missing one may sound weird and a round about way of doing it but it worked...

I ordered a whole door from an importer in Japan for about $30 and just had him ship me the missing window deflector off of it to match my missing one.
It worked!! and now I have a whole matching OEM set that even has the same discoloration.

In the end it costed me about $55 but I also ordered a bunch of stuff with it to bring the cost down and make it worth it for the imported to do me the favor.

Sometimes you have to think outside the box.

  • 2 months later...
jamind Enthusiast

jamind

Posted
Posted

Hey Lum, How are you my car cous, It took me 2 years to get a good set of originals for mine, I will have a look tomorra , i may have a spare drivers door one but dont get ya hopes up till i actually mail you saying yes i have it, ok Lum yum, mail in 24 or so, Good night, Jamind

Lum Community Regular

Lum

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hi,

Thanks for the offer, however it's actually the front passenger door one that fell off.

I'm not actually too fussed about it. The car looks decent enough without them, and forward visibility is improved slightly :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...